\ 


OF  THE 


U 


TICONDEROGA." 


SAN  FRANCISCO  : 

Francis,  Valentine  &  Co.,  Printers  and  Engravers,  517  Clay  St. 

1880. 


to 


A  » 


^^^  ^Z?  i>UA/*Ud£&. 


i/N«J 


University  of  California  •  Berkeley 

The  Peter  and  Rosell  Harvey 

Memorial  Fund 


THE    PILGRIMAGE 


OF  THE 


TICONDEROGA 


BY 


GEORGE    L.    ALLEN. 


As  a  parting  agony,  I  respectfully  dedi- 
cate this  book  to  my  fellow  -  pilgrims. 

G.    L.    A. 


PREFACE- 

The  following  pages  have  been  written  with  the  sole' 
desire  that  at  some  future  time  they  may  bring  to  the 
memory  of  those  who  participated  in  the  memorable 
cruise  of  the  "  Ticonderoga"  some  of  the  most  pleasing 
incidents  connected  with  it. 

To  originality  I  lay  no  claim,  for  wherever  I  could 
steal  there  have  I  stolen.  I  have  pilfered  alike  from  ally 
high  or  low — yea,  from  Ingersoll  to  Beecher. 

To  critics  I  have  but  to  say  "  wade  in;"  if  by  so  doing 
you  can  gain  notoriety,  you  will  attain  more  than  was 
ever  dreamed  of  by 

THE  AUTHOR, 


) 


INDEX. 


PAGE, 

CHAPTER 

I.— Outward  Bound       ...» 

1 

t* 

II.—  Maderia              . 

5 

" 

III. — Sierra  Leone             .           .           .           > 

9 

** 

IV.— Monrovia           ..... 

13 

" 

V. — Down  the  Coast        .... 

19 

ii 

VI.— St.  Helena 

28 

" 

VII.— Cape  Town     ..... 

32 

II 

VIH.— East  Coast  of  Africa.      .... 

34 

» 

IX.— Searching  for  Commerce  among  the  Arabs 

37 

« 

X.— Bombay               ..... 

43 

" 

XL— Singapore      ..... 

48 

M 

XII.— Hong  Kong            ..... 

60 

" 

XIII. — Japan            ..... 

52 

M 

XIV.— Nagasaki 

5? 

" 

XV.— The  Japs       ..... 

60 

" 

XVI.— Across  the  Pacific      .               ... 

.        67 

II 

XVII.  —  Honolulu 

70 

(< 

XVIII.    End  Ho 

75 

Ports  visited  and  distance  run  during  cruise               . 

73 

Description  of  the  Ticonderoga       ..... 

81 

Muster  Roll          ....... 

82 

Death's  Muster  Roll              ...... 

85 

THE 

PILGRIMAGE  of  the  TICONDEROGA. 


CHAPTER  I. 


OUTWARD    BOUND. 

"  For  the  advancement  of  American  commerce."  Upon 
taking  up  the  evening  paper,  my  attention  was  attracted 
by  the  above  announcement,  under  which  heading  it  went 
on  to  state  that  the  U.  S.  S.  "  Ticonderoga,"  now  fitting- 
out  at  Portsmouth,  New  Hampshire,  was  about  to  set 
out  on  a  cruise  of  about  two  years'  duration,  during 
which  time  she  would  visit  all  the  ports  of  the  world, 
known  and  unknown,  for  the  purpose  of  encouraging  and 
promoting  our  commercial  intercourse  with  other  nations. 

As  it  was  there  represented,  this  cruise  was  to  annihi- 
late the  tramp,  revive  all  our  industries,  make  the  United 
States  the  great  emporium  of  the  world — one  immense 
coffer,  into  which  all  nations  would  pour  their  wealth, 
and  make  the  year  1878  ever  memorable  in  the  annals  of 
American  history. 

This  glowing  account  of  the  country's  future  interested 
me.  For  the  past  month  I  had  been  working  hard  for 
"  Butler  and  Reform,"  consequently,  I  had  the  country's 
prosperity  at  heart.  I  could,  though  faintly,  imagine 
this  great  future.  I  could  picture  Boston  ;  her  harbor  a 
forest  of  masts,  her  wharves  crowded,     I  could  hear  a 


£  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

Babel  of  strange  voices,  hum  of  mills  and  factories.  I 
could  see  the  capitalist,  who  yesterday  persecuted  the 
tramp,  to-day  bowing  before  him  and  imploring  him  for 
his  labor.  But  then  came  the  thought,  how  is  this  great 
revolution  to  be  brought  about  %  Will  it  not  require  the 
risk  and,  perhaps,  the  lives  of  many  brave  men  1  Alas, 
yes  ;  and  can  I  sit  here  and  silently  await  its  coming, 
without  an  effort  1  No.  To  his  country  every  man  owes 
a  duty.  I  saw  mine,  and  was  at  once  resolved  to  do  it. 
To-morrow  I  would  cast  the  police  and  ninety  cents  per 
day  to  the  winds,  and  seek  a  birth  on  the  "  Ticonderoga," 
and  nobly  assist  in  relieving  the  treasury  of  the  burdens 
heaped  upon  it  by  a  horde  of  cowardly  tax-payers.  The 
first  morning  train  found  me  wending  my  way  towards 
Portsmouth.  On  my  arrival  I  lost  no  time  in  gaining  the 
navy  yard,  where  I  found  the  "  Ticonderoga  "  far  ad- 
vanced towards  completion.  It  is  needless  to  say  that 
my  application  met  with  a  success  worthy  of  the  cause. 
On  November  4th,  1878,  the  "Ticonderoga"  was 
placed  in  commission  under  the  command  of  Commander 
B.  J.  Cromwell,  IT.  S.  N.  In  a  few  days,  all  the  necessary 
preparations  being  completed,  we  dropped  down  the 
stream  to  await  favorable  weather.  On  the  20th,  we 
sailed  for  Norfolk,  Virginia.  The  day  was  fine,  and  a 
speedy  run  was  anticipated,  but  before  nightfall  we  dis- 
covered how  "  frail  are  human  hopes  and  expectations," 
for  before  that  time  it  was  blowing  a  gale.  .  We  sought 
Gloucester,  Massachusetts,  for  shelter,  but  only  remained 
a  short  time,  when  we  again  went  forth  to  battle  with 
the  storm.  Here,  what  came  very  nearly  being  a  serious 
accident,  befell  us  :  On  leaving  the  harbor  we  ran  ashore, 
through  the  carelessness  of  the  pilot  it  was  said,  and  I 
doubt  it  not,  for  he  is  one  of  those  who  have  grown  care- 


OF    THE    TICONDEROGA.  O 

less  in  office,  but  our  commander  proved  himself  equal  to 
the  occasion  and  we  were  soon  again  safely  afloat.  We 
had  learned,  and  fortunately  at  a  very  early  stage  of  the 
cruise,  the  valuable  lesson,  that  success  was  not  to  be 
attained  by  the  overland  route.  The  remainder  of  the 
passage  was  so  rough  that  we  did  not  arrive  at  Norfolk 
until  the  26th. 

Our  accident  necessitated  our  going  upon  the  dry  dock. 
As  we  received  no  serious  injury,  our  stay  was  short,  and 
on  the  5th  of  December  we  dropped  down  to  Hampton 
Roads,  there  to  await  the  arrival  of  Commodore  Shufeldt, 
who  was  to  take  charge  of  the  expedition. 

The  morning  boat  of  the  7th  from  Washington  which 
was  expected  to  bring  Commodore  Shufeldt  was  eagerly 
watched  for  by  all.  Hardly  had  she  been  secured  to  the 
wharf  when  our  small  boat  was  seen  to  shove  off  bearing 
a  stranger,  and  soon  the  news  spread  through  the  ship 
that  the  Commodore  had  come.  Everything  was  at 
fever  heat.  We  knew  that  at  last  our  day  of  depart- 
ure had  come.  At  8  a.  m.  his  broad  blue  pennant 
was  hoisted  at  the  main,  and  by  10  -o'clock  we  were 
steaming  out  of  the  Roads.  The  wind,  that  in  the 
morning  was  blowing  fresh  from  the  Northwest,  had  now 
gone  down,  until  there  was  hardly  sufficient  to  cause  a 
ripple  upon  the  water.  Our  pilot  left  us  about  2  p.  m., 
and  as  he  went  over  the  side  many  an  eager  glance  was 
cast  after  him  ;  his  leaving  seemed  like  severing  the  last 
link  between  ourselves  and  home.  We  knew  now  that 
all  communication  was  cut  off,  at  least,  for  a  month. 

The  sea  around  Cape  Henry  was  perfectly  smooth,  and 
to  one  unacquainted  with  its  history,  appeared  as  if  its 
waters  could  be  traversed  for  ever  with  impunity ;  but 
when  the  sea  is  commanded  to  offer  "up  her  dead,  what  a 


4  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

dreadful  offering  will  this  place  make ;  how  many  who 
have  anticipated  the  warm  welcome  of  friends  on  the 
morrow,  through  the  treacherous  winds  and  tides,  have 
awoke  to  find  eternity.  What  a  contrast  it  presents  to 
the  night  where,  only  a  few  miles  below,  the  "  Huron  " 
met  her  sad  fate. 

Towards  evening,  the  wind  again  began  to  freshen,  and 
soon  the  "  Ticonderoga,"  in  addition  to  her  steam,  was 
under  a  cloud  of  sail  plowing  her  way  toward  Maderia,  at 
the  rate  of  ten  knots  per  hour.  Our  passage  across  was 
accomplished  in  seventeen  days,  which,  taking  the  weather 
into  consideration  (almost  a  continuation  of  gales),  was  a 
moderately  fair  one. 


Ov    THE     TICONDEItOGA. 


CHAPTER  II. 


MADERIA. 

Hardly  had  the  clock  of  the  citadel  proclaimed  the  hour 
of  midnight  when  the  whole  city  seemed  to  burst  forth 
into  life.  The  booming  of  cannon,  ringing  of  bells,  pro- 
cessions and  music,  proclaimed  the  natal  day  of  the 
"  King  of  Men" — that  Christmas  had  come.  On  board, 
the  day  was  spent  as  pleasantly  as  circumstances  would 
permit,  as  arriving  late  on  the  previous  evening  rendered 
our  resources  but  very  limited,  and,  though  many  missed 
the  "  good  cheer "  of  Christmas  at  home,  but  few  com- 
plained. Being  myself  a  firm  believer  in  all  the  Christ- 
mas virtues,  of  which  self-denial  is  not  the  least,  I  will 
live  in  hopes  that  my  gastronomic  loss  of  that  day  may 
prove  a  future  spiritual  gain. 

As  soon  as  convenient  I  paid  a  visit  to  the  shore.  As 
so  much  has  been  written  about  Madeira,  it  would  be  a 
waste  of  time  for  me  to  attempt  to  further  describe  it. 
Being  accompanied  on  my  visit  by  a  friend,  who  wishing 
to  play  the  part  of  the  "American  Abroad,"  which  in  his 
opinion  could  not  be  done  with  any  degree  of  propriety, 
without  paying  a  visit  to  the  chapel  on  the  top  of  a 
mountain.  After  a  little  persuasion,  I  consented  to 
accompany  him.  Horses  were  procured,  and  the  ascent 
commenced.  The  ride  up  was  delightful,  and  I  enjoyed 
it ;  for  several   days  I  could  not  sit  down  without  think- 


ing of  it. 


6  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

At  the  chapel  we  dismounted  and  turned  the  horses  over 
to  the  "  Guide,"  who  was  to  take  them  back  to  the  city. 
He  was  a  most  excellent  fellow,  and  very  profuse  in  his 
attentions  to  our  wants.  After  bidding  him  an  affec- 
tionate farewell,  he  wished  to  know  if  the  "  Seniors  " 
would  not  present  him  with  a  small  donation,  as  he  was 
entirely  exhausted  from  walking  up  the  hill,  and  wished 
to  get  a  glass  of  wine  to  revive  and  strengthen  him  for 
the  downward  trip.  "We  politely  informed  him  that  we 
could  take  no  notice  of  his  request  unless  accompanied  by 
medical  advice,  as  we  were  opposed  to  the  use  of  all 
intoxicating  liquors.  He  pleaded  again  and  again, 
even  with  tears.  He  informed  us  that  he  had  a  wife 
and  eight  children,  an  aged  father  and  mother,  all 
depending  upon  him  for  support ;  that  in  all  probability 
if  he  undertook  the  descent  in  his  present  weakened 
condition,  he  might  be  carried  to  a  bed  of  sickness.  We 
tendered  the  poor  man  our  heartfelt  sympathies,  explain- 
ing to  him,  that  though  his  cross  was  truly  a  heavy  one, 
he  should  endeavor  to  meekly  and  uncomplainingly  bear 
it,  and  that  if  he  done  so,  the  great  spiritual  harvest  he 
would  reap  hereafter. 

I  should  have  liked  to  assist  this  poor  man  had  the 
request  been  made  for  any  other  purpose ;  no  doubt  I 
would  have  done  so. 

We  found  no  difficulty  in  gaining  admittance  to  the 
chapel,  one  of  the  Father's  kindly  volunteering  to  act 
as  escort,  and  who  took  great  pains  to  exhibit  everything 
of  interest.  After  becoming  thoroughly  tired  of  gazing 
upon  the  portraits  of  a  multitude  of  saints  of  all  sizes, 
ages  and  sexes,  we  were  about  to  take  our  departure, 
when  my  attention  was  attracted  by  the  charity  box, 
which,  by  the  way,  is  so  conspicuously  placed,  that  it  is 


OK     THE     TI00NDEROGA.  / 

almost  impossible  for  a  visitor  to  make  his  exit  without 
noticing  it.  I  was  about  to  deposit  a  Yankee  half-dollar, 
when  remembering  the  strictness  of  those  old  churches  in 
some  matters,  I  thought  it  best  to  first  request  permis- 
sion. The  Father  had  noticed  my  hesitation,  and 
divined  its  cause,  for  before  I  had  time  to  speak,  he  had 
nodded  his  assent,  so  I  invested  at  forty-fold  per  cent. 
Before  allowing  us  to  depart,  he  bestowed  hisblessing;  this 
of  course  was  not  on  account  of  our  munificence,  for  this 
venerable  prelate  was  a  good  man — one  of  true  inward- 
ness— his  avoirdupois  was  over  two  hundred,  and  above 
fifty  cents. 

The  descent  was  accomplished  by  means  of  sleighs, 
which  run  over  those  small  and  evenly  laid  pebbles  with 
which  the  streets  are  paved,  as  smoothly  as  if  they  were 
ice. 

On  again  arriving  in  the  city,  I  wished  to  engage  a 
barouche,  a  vehicle,  in  shape  between  a  police  van  and 
a  hearse,  mounted  on  runners,  and  drawn  by  oxen. 
To  this  my  friend  objected,  saying  that  he  was  an 
'"American,  and  no  foreigner  was  going  to  laugh  at 
him  driving  around  the  street  in  a  bull  team." 
Persuasion  was  useless,  he  being  fully  determined  that 
his  dignity  should  not  be  compromised,  so  there  was 
nothing  left  but  to  retrace  our  steps  and  return  to  the 
ship. 

Here,  it  might  be  said,  our  labors  began,  as  everything 
was  done  to  promote  commercial  intercourse  by  extensive 
purchases  of  "  necessaries."  Some  say  they  were  made 
on  account  of  cheapness,  but  this  I  denounce  as  a  base 
slander,  for  I  feel  they  were  made  from  purely  patriotic 
motives. 

On    December  30th  we  sailed  for  Sierra   Leone.     It 


8  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

was  the  intention  on  leaving  to  have  stopped  at  Teneriffe, 
but  wind  and  weather  being  favorable,  it  was  thought 
advisable  to  continue  on  our  journey.  On  our  way,  we 
sighted  its  peak  rising  12,300  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea  and  said  to  be  visible  at  a  distance  of  one  hundred 
miles.  This  I  give  for  what  it  is  worth.  I  only  know 
that  we  were  not  that  distance  off  when  we  sighted  it,  but 
it  might  have  been  that  the  day  was  not  sufficiently 
clear.  I  have  no  doubt  but  that  some  good  man,  by  the 
aid  of  that  article  which  "removeth  mountains"  has 
seen  it  at  the  above  distance. 

During  the  whole  passage  we  were  blessed  with  beau- 
tiful weather,  and  on  the  5th  of  January  arrived  at  Porto 
Grande,  where  we  remained  only  sufficient  time  to 
replenish  our  bunkers,  sailing  on  the  8th  for  Porto 
Praya,  where  we  arrived  on  the  9th,  again  sailing  on  the 
following  evening* 


OF     THE     T1CONDEKOGA. 


CHAPTER  III. 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

After  a  passage  of  live  days,  we  arrived,  January  15th, 
at  the  English  colony  of  Sierra  Leone.  Here  we  found 
one  French  and  two  English  men-of-war,  besides  a  num- 
ber of  merchantmen,  among  which  was  a  solitary  Ameri- 
can, who  by  some  mischance  had  strayed  from  the  flock. 

After  the  regular  exchange  of  salutes,  the  Commodore, 
accompanied  by  his  staff,  paid  an  official  visit  to  the  shore, 
where,  on  account  of  rank,  and  also  being  a  special  arbi- 
trator in  the  Anglo-Liberian  boundary  question,  all  mili- 
tary and  civic  honors  were  paid  him.  At  the  landing  he 
was  received  by  H.  B.  M's  army,  viz.,  two  officers  (white), 
seven  soldiers  (colored),  and  a  string  band  (mixed).  When 
he  landed  the  officers  bowed,  soldiers  presented  arms, 
while  the  band  played  "  Tommy  make  room  for  your 
aunty."  It  was  quite  a  creditable  reception,  and  well 
enjoyed  by  the  horde  of  native  mud-larks  who  has  assem- 
bled to  witness  it. 

Freetown  is  populated  by  blacks,  nearly  all  the  offices 
are  filled  by  them,  and  they  miss  but  few  opportunities 
of  letting  a  white  man  know  their  power. 

The  native  tribes  here  are  the  Timmanee  and  Soo-Soo, 
who  live  principally  by  trading  with  the  merchants  of 
Freetown,  bringing  in  cattle,  ground-nuts,  fruit,  etc.,  and 
taking  in  exchange  such  articles  as  they  may  require  ; 
those  living  on  the  sea  coast  do  some  fishing,  but  it  is 


10  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

more  a  matter  of  necessity  than  a  business.  A  man  goes 
out  with  his  canoe,  drops  his  line,  making  one  end  fast 
to  his  big  toe  ;  he  then  lies  down  and  awaits  a  bite.  If 
anything  hooks  on  sufficiently  large  to  give  him  pain 
from  pulling  on  the  toe,  he  hauls  him  in,  returns  home, 
gorges  himself  with  it,  and  then  lies  down  and  sleeps  un- 
til he  is  again  hungry.  If  he  should  be  fortunate,  and 
make  a  big  haul,  he  goes  to  the  town  and  exchanges  them 
for  rum,  and  then  enjoys,  in  addition  to  his  "  gorge,"  a 
big  drunk,  and  is  doubly  envied  by  his  neighbors,  for 
among  them  drunkenness  is  considered  rather  an  accom- 
plishment than  a  fault.  It  is  quite  common  to  hear  the 
women  with  pride  relating  to  one  another  the  different 
stages  of  intoxication  in  which  their  husbands  returned 
the  previous  evening.  The  woman  whose  husband  hap- 
pened to  be  brought  home  on  a  shutter  is  truly  envied. 
Among  them  you  can  procure  a  preventive  or  cure  for  all 
diseases  and  accidents.  These  Fetich,  unlike  Yankee 
patent  medicines,  are  not  warranted  to  cure  all  the  ail- 
ments of  the  human  family.  One  insures  the  possessor 
against  the  poisonous  bites  of  reptiles.  Another  against 
insects,  and  so  on.  One  herb,  if  carried  about  the  person, 
defies  the  power  of  his  Satanic  Majesty.  I  was  about  to 
make  an  extensive  purchase  of  this  article,  but  discovered 
there  was  a  prayer  which  on  the  approach  of  danger  had 
to  be  repeated  in  the  native  tongue  or  the  herb  lost  its 
efficacy.  Upon  consideration,  I  found  the  probability  of 
my  ever  becoming  a  success  at  Soo-Soo  praying  too  distant 
to  entertain  any  further  idea  of  the  herb  investment. 

Their  favorite  amusement  is  dancing,  and  their  favor- 
ite dance  it  the  "  Palamarnih."  This  I  was  informed 
was  introduced  by  the  Europeans,  and  is  of  Celtic  origin, 


OF    THE    T1C0NDER0GA.  11 

'being  formerly  known  as  the  "  Conomarra "  dance,  but 
in  this  there  seems  to  be  a  division  of  opinion. 

The  leader  in  the  dance  is  dressed  in  the  most  fantastic 
manner,  and  is  styled  the  "  devil,"  and  makes  a  most 
orthodox  impersonation  of  his  Majesty.  He  twists  and 
writhes  his  body  and  features  into  every  possible  shape, 
while  the  others  imitate  as  far  as  possible  these  contor- 
tions, keeping  time  to  tire  discordant  clanging  of  a  vile 
substitute  for  music,  executed  by  a  more  vile  substitute 
for  musicians. 

As  the  dance  progresses  the  music  becomes  louder 
while  the  dancers  get  into  a  perfect  frenzy,  and  their 
already  scanty  wardrobe  becomes  piece  by  piece  beauti- 
fully less.  The  dance  partakes  a  good  deal  of  the  can-can, 
and  if  less  immoral,  it,  at  the  finish,  leaves  less  to  the 
imagination.  Any  one  who  is  willing  to  purchase  amuse- 
ment at  the  expense  of  his  olfactory,  I  by  all  means 
recommend  to  him  the  u  Palmarrah," 

The  weather  being  overbearingly  warm,  and  laying 
here  nearly  a  month,  began  to  tell  on  our  patience.  A 
certain  amount  of  discontent  began  to  make  itself  visible 
through  the  ship,  and  a  letter  addressed  to  the  New  York 
Graphic,  which  I  happened  accidently  to  pick  up,  only 
tended  to  make  things  worse.     It  read  as  follows ; 

"  Dear  Graphic  : — I  have  so  far  kept  you  posted  as 
to  the  movements  of  the  ship,  I  will  now  let  you  into  the 
secret,  but  don't  give  it  away.  As  you  already  know, 
this  expedition  is  supposed  to  be  for  the  advancement  of 
American  commerce,  and  no  doubt  regular  reports  will 
be  forwarded  to  show  the  extent  of  our  labor,  so  as  to 
keep  the  people  hoodwinked,  but  our  actual  mission  is  a 
■  Fenian  '  one.     We  are  now  looking  for  some  convenient 


12  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

place  where  we  can  get  a  foothold  on  the  coast ;  then  we 
will  penetrate  into  the  interior  as  far  as  the  head  waters 
of  the  Nile,  where  we  will  build  boats  and  float  our 
munitions  of  war  down  to  the  sea,  cross  over  to  Russia, 
which  we  will  cross,  then  re-embark  for  Spitzbergen, 
which  place  will  be  the  base  of  operation.  This  can  be 
done  easily,  and  without  the  knowledge  of  the  British 
Government.  So  be  not  surprised  when  the  news  is 
flashed  over  the  wires,  '  Ireland  is  free.'      Yours,  etc," 

The  above  I  give  for  what  it  is  worth,  and  patiently 
await  events.  * 

On  February  18-th  we  took  our  departure  for  Mon- 
rovia, stopping  on  the  way  at  Sulmah  and  Cape  Mount, 
and  arriving  at  Monrovia  on  the  21st. 


OF     THE     TICONDEaOGA.  13 


CHAPTER  IV. 


MONROVIA. 

This  is  the  capital  of  the  Liberian  Republic,  and  con- 
tains about  600  inhabitants,  nearly  all  of  whom  are  those 
who  have  emigrated  from  the  United  States,  or  their 
children.  They  carry  on  all  the  affairs  of  the  State,  and 
possess  about  all  the  intelligence  of  the  place.  Those 
among  them  who  have  any  energy  whatsoever,  enter  the 
political  arena;  for,  to  be  President,  a  Senator,  or  the 
head  of  a  department,  being  their  whole  ambition. 
When  "Congress"  meets  there  is  always  an  immense 
amount  of  business  on  hand.  A  stranger  visiting  one  of 
their  sessions  might  easily  imagine  them  to  be  a  first-rate 
power.  Large  amounts  of  money  have  to  be  yearly 
appropriated  for  the  support  of  the  army  and  navy,  postal 
and  telegraph  routes  to  be  kept  up,  etc.  That  these 
things  as  yet  have  no  existence  among  them,  and  even  if 
they  did,  the  money  required  for  their  support  would 
have  to  be  taken  from  the  already  empty  coffers  of  the 
State,  are  facts  of  too  insignificant  a  nature  to  effect  the 
deliberations  of  those  ebony  Senators.  Yet  they  are  in  a 
manner  ever  vigilant,  there  being  no  such  a  thing  as 
"pushing  a  bill;"  the  most  important  measure  will  at 
times  occupy  days  of  debate,  as  no  Hon.  Senator  ever 
misses  an  opportunity  of  displaying  his  oratorical  or 
argumentative  abilities.  As  Civil  Service  reformers,  the 
great  Republic  of  the  West  might  take  a  valuable  lesson. 


14  THE    I'lLG  III  MAGE 

The  following  is  an  advertisement  which  appeared  in  the 
official  organ  of  the  State : 

"WANTED!— A  young  man  as  clerk  in  the  State 
Department.  The  applicant  must  be  of  good  moral  char- 
acter, be  able  to  write  a  fair,  legible  hand;  well  up  in 
figures;  not  addicted  to  the  use  of  intoxicating  liquors, 
and  be  willing  to  enter  upon  the  duties  of  his  office  at 
once.  Apply  to  G.  B.  Gardner,  Sac.  of  State." 

Here  the  Treasury  is  always  empty  ;  the  victors  care 
not  for  the  spoils,  and  Liberia  is  proud  of  the  fact  that 
her  Congressmen  are  officially  honest.  The  people  are 
divided  into  about  three  classes;  those  who  are  in  office, 
those  who  are  seeking  office,  and  the  remainder  preach- 
ing. The  first,  to  work,  is  beneath  their  dignity ;  the 
second  have  no  time  to  work,  and  the  third,  their  minds 
are  continually  pre-occupied  with  things  which  are  not  of 
this  earth.  Then  comes  the  natives;  well,  they  won't 
work,  so  the  probability  of  her  exchequer  being  improved 
is  but  distant. 

About  the  only  labor  I  saw  performed  was  by  the 
"chain  gang,"  which  was  composed  of  natives,  sentenced 
for  petty  offences,  and  made  to  work  on  the  public 
streets.  The  "  gang  "  was  out  in  charge  of  a  jailor,  who 
was  just  setting  them  to  work  to  remove  some  obstruc- 
tion from  the  street.  On  my  return  a  short  time  after- 
wards, I  found  the  jailor  reclining  under  a  palm  tree  fast 
asleep,  and  his  prisoners  chained  in  twos,  scattered 
around  enjoying  their  afternoon  nap.  Why  are  they 
chained  together  or  at  all]  I  asked  a  jailor.  He  had  no 
further  knowledge  than  it  was  the  law.  Certainly  it  is 
not  to  keep  them  from  running  away,  for  that  feat  would 


OF     THE     ffCXWDEROGA.  15 

require  some  exertion  on  their  part,  the  unlikelihood  of 
which  is  sufficient  to  render  the  precaution  unnecessary. 
•  The  Monrovians  make  great  professions  of  religion, 
and  have  carried  them  so  far  as  to  prohibit,  by  law,  the 
natives  from  performing  many  of  their  ancient  religious  rites. 
Though  a  believer  in  religious  freedom,  I  can  pardon 
much  on  account  of  their  enthusiasm  to  spread  the  true 
faith. 

A  striking  example  of  their  sincerity  came  under  my 
notice.  I  paid  a  visit  to  the  shore  on  Sunday.  The  day 
being  very  warm,  and  I,  not  being  altogether  a  true  be- 
liever iu  the  efficacy  of  cold  water  as  an  antidote,  sought 
something  stronger.  I  made  several  inquiries  as  to 
where  the  "necessary"  could  be  procured,  and  from  all 
received  but  one  answer;  that  it  was  "de  Lord's  day." 
I  was  about  giving  up  in  despair,  when  fortune  favored 
me  in  the  person  of  a  Mr.  W.,  who,  after  first  making  the 
above  answer,  added,  that  as  we  were  Americans  and 
strangers,  he  would  oblige  us,  but  under  no  other  circum- 
stances would  he  so  far  transgress  the  laws  of  his  creed 
and  country.  This  last  assertion  I  was  inclined  to  doubt, 
but  being  afterwards  informed  that  Mr.  W.  was  a  very 
upright  man  and  an  Elder  of  the  church,  my  mind  was 
relieved. 

To  Kroo  Town,  which  is  just  outside  of  Monrovia,  1 
paid  a  visit,  where  I  found  very  neat  and  comfortable 
looking  huts  erected  with  taste,  and  the  village  laid  out 
in  streets.  At  first  I  was  rather  surprised  to  discover 
such  an  air  of  cleanliness  about  the  place,  but  this  I  after- 
wards accounted  for  from  the  fact  that  it  takes  such  a 
large  amount  of  dirt  to  fit  out  the  person  of  a  native,  that 
there  is  none  left  to  waste  upon  their  household  or 
streets. 


16  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

A  crowd  at  the  door  of  one  of  the  huts  attracted  my 
attention.  Upon  entering  I  found  that  one  of  the 
natives  had  been  guilty  of  a  petty  theft.  An  officer  of 
the  law  was  there  to  make  an  arrest,  unless  the  accused 
was  willing  to  pay  for  the  article,  expense  of  warrant, 
etc.,  amounting  in  all  to  about  fifty  cents.  The  poor 
man  looked  truly  penitent.  He  had  the  appearance  of 
one  who  at  least  tried  to  do  right.  His  hut  was  clean 
and  comfortable ;  the  only  ornament  that  graced  the 
walls,  was  a  picture  cut  from  one  of  the  pages  of  Harper's 
Weekly — a  portrait  of  W.  M.  Tweed  in  Island  uniform. 
When  I  thought  how  easily  those  poor,  untutored 
Africans  were  influenced  by  associations,  I  pitied  him 
and  paid  his  indebtedness.  He  came  to  me  a  short  time 
afterwards,  and  to  show  me  that  he  was  not  ungrateful, 
wanted  to  sell  me  a  bottle  of  gin  for  a  dollar.  This 
offer  I  refused.  Finally,  as  a  further  proof  of  his  grati- 
tude, he  agreed  to  give  it  for  seventy-five  cents  and 
throw  one  of  his  wives  into  the  bargain.  This  kindness 
I  was  also  forced  to  decline. 

The  village  being  directly  under  the  eye  of  the  Monro- 
vians,  no  pains  are  spared  to  bring  the  natives  within 
the  pale  of  the  church.  Many  of  them  have  already 
given  up  their  old  and  unpronounceable  tribe  names  and 
taken  upon  themselves  such  truly  scriptural  ones  as  Six- 
teen-string- Jack,  John  Morrisey,  Seven  up,  High-low- 
Jack,  Old  Sledge,  Keno,  Whisky  Poker,  etc.  Among 
the  juvenile  class  can  also  be  found  evidences  of  decided 
improvement.  In  questioning  one,  you  find  he  can  repeat 
the  ten  commandments  as  readily  as  a  Yankee  Sunday 
School  boy,  and  on  the  other  hand,  you  will  find  he  can 
lie,  swear  or  steal  with  equal  ease,  plainly  showing  that 
the  untiring  labors  of   the   Missionary   has  not  been   in 


OF     THE     TICONDEROGA.  17 

vain,  and  that  civilization  is  making  mighty  strides  in 
Africa. 

While  here,  it  came  to  our  knowledge  that  the  Liberian 
Government  had  found  much  trouble  in  collecting  their 
revenue  at  Tabou,  which  place  is  situated  on  the  southern 
boundary  of  the  Republic.  At  different  times  they  had 
sent  down  an  armed  force  in  hopes  of  correcting  the  evil, 
but  so  far  without  any  definite  results.  ISTow,  as  this 
unpaid  revenue  materially  affected  the  commercial  inter- 
ests of  the  United  States,  it  was  plainly  our  duty  to  see 
them  paid  up.  JSTo  difficulty  was  anticipated ;  the  mere 
thought  of  one  of  those  black  savages  having  the  audacity 
to  question  a  mandate  emanating  from  one  duly  clothed 
with  power  by  the  great  United  States,  was  too  ridicu- 
lous to  be  entertained.  All  we  had  to  do  was  to  issue 
the  order  for  them  to  pay,  which  would  be  sufficient ;  so 
on  March  the  8th  we  anchored  off  Tabou.  On  the  fol- 
lowing day  King  "  Yumlah,"  accompanied  by  his  Cabinet, 
came  on  board  to  know  our  mission. 

On  being  informed,  he  politely  gave  us  to  understand 
that  he  was  capable  of  conducting  his  own  affairs,  and 
that  he  would  stand  no  foreign  interference.  An  attempt 
was  made  to  compromise  matters,  but  it  was  useless.  He 
was  then  informed  that  if  he  still  persisted  in  refusing  to 
comply  with  our  demands,  we  would  be  compelled  to  use 
force ;  this  caused  a  "  Cabinet  consultation,"  their  unani- 
mous conclusion  being,  "  No  surrender ;"  the  King  mak- 
ing known  their  decision,-  said :  "In  the  cause  of 
humanity,  and  that  a  war  might  be  averted,  which  he 
knew  would  be  a  long  and  bloody  one,  he  would  endeavor 
to  come  to  some  conciliatory  understanding."  As  he 
approached,  his  advisers'  anxiety  was  at  fever  heat,  for 
with  them,  perhaps,  rested    the    future    of   our   country, 


18 


THE    PILGRIMAGE 


and  as  he  slowly  raised  that  index  diget  to  his  nasal 
organ,  and  uttered  those  ominous  number,  "4 — 11 — 44, '' 
not  a  whisper  could  be  heard  nor  can  pen  describe  our 
humiliation  as  each  slowly  answered,  "  Keno,  on  the  top 
row."  We  knew  now  that  the  jig  was  up ;  that  the 
nigger  wouldn't  scare  ;  so  we  were  forced  to  retrace  our 
steps,  with  the  American  flag  trailing  in  the  dust  and 
American  commerce  still  suffering. 

On  our  return,  we  stopped  a  few  days  at  Cape  Palmas, 
arriving  at  Monrovia  on  the  19th,  leaving  again  on  the 
23d  for  Cape  Mount  and  Sulymah,  where  the  Anglo-Li- 
berian  commission  was  in  session.  Our  bunkers  being 
low,  we  left  for  Sierra  Leone,  where  we  replenished  them 
and  again  returned  to  Sulymah.  A  few  days  afterwards, 
the  Joint  Commission  (after  taking  an  immense  amount 
of  evidence,)  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  Northern 
boundary  of  the  Republic  of  Liberia  was  "  one  of  them 
things  that  no  man  can  find  out,"  and  adjourned. 

Commodore  Shufeldt  was  to  have  acted  as  special 
arbitrator  in  the  case,  but  the  English  Commissioners, 
either  for  want  of  confidence  in  the  superior  judgment  of 
the  Commodore,  or  in  the  strength  of  their  own  case, 
objected  to  him  acting ;  so  our  mission  being  ended,  we 
returned  again  to  Monrovia. 


OF     THE     TICONDEROGA.  19 


CHAPTER  V. 


DOWN    THE    COAST. 

After  putting  our  mail  on  board  of  an  American  bark 
which  was  bound  for  the  United  States — for,  though  the 
assertion  may  seem  incredible,  we  saw  no  less  than  three 
American  vessels  at  this  place  and  one  at  Sierra  Leone, 
making  four  in  all — we  took  our  leave  of  Liberia,  April 
29th,  for  a  cruise  down  the  coast,  and  after  a  run  of  eight 
days  arrived  at  Fernando  Po,  an  island  belonging  to 
Spain.  During  the  Cuban  rebellion  prisoners  were  sent 
here ;  the  Spaniards,  either  from  feelings  of  humanity  or 
through  fear  of  the  opinions  of  other  nations,  did  not 
treat  them  as  rebels  found  in  arms  against  the  supreme 
authority  of  the  State,  and  take  upon  themselves  the  re- 
sponsibility of  their  deaths  by  decently  executing  them  at 
home,  but  sent  them  out  here,  where  the  fever  soon  car- 
ried them  off.  Out  of  several  thousand  sent  here,  but 
few  escaped. 

The  native  tribe  here  is  the  Bubis,  who  hold  an  invet- 
erate hatred  for  anything  pertaining  to  civilization.  They 
are  said  to  be  a  quiet  and  inoffensive  people.  But  little 
is  known  of  their  habits  further  than  is  learned  by  their 
coming  to  trade  at  Clarence,  the  capital  of  the  island. 
The  Bubis  women  are  said  to  be  the  most  ugly  and  most 
virtuous  on  the  coast,  the  crime  of  adultery  (the  greatest 
in  their  code)  being  among  them  severely  punished.  For 
the  first  offense,  the  male  offender  loses  his  left  hand,  and 


20  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

for  the  second,  his  right.  Either  the  crime  is  very  rare, 
or  the  law  is  not  rigidly  enforced,  for  in  "  calling  their 
hands  "  I  always  found  they  "  held  a  pair." 

Here  we  found  some  coal  belonging  to  the  American 
Government  that  had  been  left  on  the  island  during  our 
little  unpleasantness,  from  which  we  filled,  and  proceeded 
on  our  way  to  the  Gaboon  River,  arriving  at  Libreville, 
a  French  settlement,  on  the  16th.  Here,  as  at  other  set- 
tlements, the  laws  of  the  country  to  which  they  belong 
are  enforced  only  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  post, 
outside  of  which  the  natives  are  governed  by  their  own 
code,  which  is  generally  of  a  very  primitive  nature. 

The  tribe  here  is  the  "  Mpongwis,"  who  are  allowed  to 
be  the  most  accomplished  one  on  the  coast.  A  considerable 
oil  trade  is  carried  on,  all  of  which  has  to  pass  through 
the  hands  of  the  "  Mpongwi,"  he  acting  as  middleman 
between  the  Bush  tribe  and  the  Europeans  in  the  barter, 
always  making  a  liberal  percentage  for  himself,  but  which 
is  soon  wasted  in  trade  rum.  They  are  first-class  rogues, 
but  prefer  robbing  on  purely  "business  principles"  rather 
than  by  common  pilfering. 

The  greatest  indignity  that  a  Mpongwi  can  suffer  is  for 
another  man  to  run  away  with  his  wife.  In  such  a  case 
he  does  not  harness  his  fleetest  horse  and  give  chase,  nor 
does  he  send  out  detectives  on  their  track,  but  quietly 
takes  down  his  gun,  and  goes  out  and  shoots  the  first  man 
he  meets,  and  as  an  excuse  merely  states  that  he  has  done 
so  because  some  man  has  run  away  with  his  wife.  The 
friends  of  the  murdered  man  do  not  seek  to  revenge  his 
death  on  his  murderer,  for  in  their  opinion  he  has  com- 
mitted no  crime,  he  having  only  conformed  with  the  laws 
of  the  tribe ;  they  go  out  and  "  drop  "  the  first  man  they 
meet  belonging  to  an  adjoining  village.     This  goes  on  un- 


OF     THE     TICONDEROGA.  21 

til  they  are  all  on  their  guard,  then  the  affair  is  settled 
by  a  general  palaver,  the  chief  of  the  tribe  having  the 
last  man  killed  demanding  from  the  tribe  to  which  the 
man  belongs  who  has  lost  his  wife  the  payment  of  a  cer- 
tain amount  in  rum,  cattle  or  slaves.  In  some  cases  of 
theft,  a  similar  mode  of  "  passing  it  along  the  line "  is 
resorted  to.  In  case  of  a  person  being  committed  of 
theft,  he  is  either  flogged  or  made  a  slave,  and  in  some 
cases,  both. 

After  a  stay  here  of  four  days,  we  left,  May  20th,  for 
the  Congo  River,  stopping  at  Mayumba  and  Kabenda  on 
our  way  (the  latter  place  was  the  principal  slave  mart  on 
the  coast  before  its  suppression),  arriving  at  the  German 
settlement  of  Banana  on  the  27th.  At  the  Congo  is  the 
Mussarongo  tribe,  who  bear  the  reputation  of  being  the 
most  hardened  set  of  piratical  villains  on  the  coast,  among 
whom  lying  and  stealing,  if  not  considered  a  virtue,  is  at 
least  considered  no  fault. 

While  here,  we  sent  an  expedition  up  the  river  for  the 
purpose  of  making  a  correct  survey  of  it  as  far  as  naviga- 
ble and  amending  our  trading  treaty  with  the  natives. 
They  succeeded  in  ascending  the  river  about  fifty  miles, 
when  the  launch  broke  down  and  had  to  be  towed  back 
to  the  ship.  As  the  repairs  required  would  occupy  too 
great  a  time,  the  survey  was  abandoned,  and  on  June  2d 
we  left  for  St.  Paul  de  Loando,  the  capital  of  Angola,  a 
penal  colony  belonging  to  Portugal.  That  country,  hav- 
ing abolished  capital  punishment,  has  discovered  in  the 
malarial  fevers  of  Angola  an  ample  substitute  for  the 
halter.  The  Portuguese,  having  discovered  that  the  negro 
is  more  easily  convinced  by  the  means  of  the  lash  than 
by  words,  have,  by  means  of  the  striking  arguments  of 
this  muscular  Christianity/ made  wonderful  improvements 


.).) 


THE    PILGRIMAGE 


in  the  character  of  the  native.  The  Mucelis,  though  liv- 
ing under  Portuguese  rule,  are  allowed  to  enjoy  their  own 
laws,  which,  like  the  laws  of  other  tribes,  principally  re- 
late to  the  native  weakness  of  breaking  the  Seventh 
Commandment,  the  most  petty  offense  being  punished 
with  slavery.  This  law  is  said  to  work  charmingly;  one 
by  one  they  fall  from  grace,  until  but  one  is  left  pure;  he 
then  proclaims  a  general  pardon  and  they  commence  over 
again.  As  the  tribe  is  comparatively  large  and  passably 
honest,  this  does  not  take  place  more  than  twice  or  three 
times  a  year. 

We  have  now  visited  the  most  important  ports  on  the 
west  coast,  one  abounding  in  wealth,  but  cursed  with  a 
malarial  climate  that  is  death  to  the  European,  and  inhab- 
ited by  a  people  too  indolent  to  gather  the  riches  that  nature 
has  placed  at  their  hand.  The  principal  trade  is  oil  made 
from  the  palm  kernel  and  ground-nut.  The  European 
erects  his  factorv  on  the  sea  coast  and  opens  his  store, 
the  stock  on  hand  comprising  such  articles  as  calicoes  of 
the  loudest  patterns,  trinkets,  beads,  powder,  and  an 
abundant  supply  of  rum.  The  oil  is  collected  in  a  crude 
state,  and  in  small  quantities,  the  native  being  satisfied 
if  he  has  sufficient  to  supply  his  present  want,  which  is 
generally  rum.  In  former  days,  when  to  the  eye  of  the 
savage  "  all  was  gold  that  glittered,"  the  oil  trade  was  a 
very  lucrative  business,  but  since  the  advent  of  the  mis- 
sionary things  have  changed.  The  native  is  now  able  to 
compete  in  acts  of  roguery  with  the  man  at  whose  mercy 
he  once  was  ;  for,  however  laudable  the  cause,  or  earnest 
the  labor  of  the  missionary  in  trying  to  elevate  him,  the 
result  is  that  he  has  not  succeeded  in  implanting  one 
Christian  precept  in  his   breast,  and  from  this  mission 


OF     THE     T1CONDEROGA.  2?) 

school,  instead  of  ever  remaining  a  bungling   thief,   he 
graduates  an  accomplished  villain. 

In  matters  of  dress,  the  native  is  very  modest,  their 
whole  outfit  consisting  of  a  few  inches  of  calico  about  the 
loins;  among  some,  the  only  addition  to  that  which  nature 
has  furnished  is  a  simple  string  of  beads.  Though  men 
and  women  dress  alike,  but  little  difficulty  is  experienced 
in  distinguishing  the  sexes.  In  Sierra  Leone  and  Liberia 
the  law  requires  that  they  shall  appear  in  public  with  a 
certain  amount  of  clothing,  but  this  cumpulsory  addition 
'to  native  taste  would  be  hardly  sufficient  to  support  a 
Chinese  laundry. 

Here,  a  man's  worldly  wealth  can  be  estimated  by  the 
number  of  his  wives  ;  for,  before  a  young  man  can  take 
upon  himself  the  responsibility  of  making  his  wife  sup- 
port him,  he  must  first  earn  sufficient  to  purchase  her.  If 
then,  by  her  thrift  and  his  theft,  he  succeeds  in  accumu- 
lating riches,  he  takes  unto  himself  wife  No.  2.  Should 
he  be  any  way  dilatory  about  making  the  addition,  he  is 
sure  to  be  reminded  of  the  fact  by  wife  No.  1,  who  does 
not  argue  to  herself  that  where  there  are  divided  affec- 
tions there  can  be  no  happiness  ;  for,  of  affections,  she 
knows  nothing,  but  takes  a  very  practical  view  of 
the  matter,  and  sees  in  No.  2  not  a  rival,  but  an 
assistant  in  the  work  of  procuring  a  livelihood  for  her 
"  lord."  As  much  care  and  judgment  is  exercised  here 
in  selecting  a  wife  as  would  be  in  purchasing  a  horse  in 
America,  as  the  man  has  to  pay  a  round  sum  for  her, 
which  he  only  expects  to  recover  either  from  the  proceeds 
of  her  labor  or  from  the  sale  of  the  children  she  may  bear 
him.  At  the  Gaboon,  among  the  Mpongwis,  a  young 
woman  has  to  appear  before  a  female  committee  before 
marriage,  who  certify  to  her  chastity,  and  if  found  u  fair 


24  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

but  frail,"  she  is  banished  from  the  tribe  ;  but,  at  the 
Congo,  virtue  is  not  held  in  such  esteem.  It  is  said  that 
here  but  few  women  have  children  ;  so  a  maiden  who  has 
proved  her  power  of  propagating  the  race,  does  not  long 
await  suitors,  and  her  "  little  experience  "  becomes  to  her 
parent  a  financial  blessing.  Among  all  the  tribes  adul- 
tery is  considered  a  crime,  punishable  by  death,  flogging, 
slavery,  or  by  fine  ;  generally,  the  matter  is  settled  by  the 
latter  method,  and  makes  blackmailing  quite  common  in 
Africa.  If  one  native  becomes  jealous  of  the  rising  afflu- 
ence of  his  neighbor  he  at  once  lays  plans  for  his 
downfall,  which  he  succeeds  in  accomplishing  by  means 
of  one  of  his  wives,  and  ere  long  the  unsuspecting  "Mil- 
lionaire "  finds  himself  in  the  hands  of  the  law,  charged 
with  the  dread  crime,  to  escape  which  he  is  only  too  will- 
ing to  part  with  some  of  his  riches.  In  these  cases, 
whether  pretended  or  real,  the  character  of  the  woman  is 
not  affected,  for  here  a  man  may  sell  or  lease  his  wife, 
sister  or  mother  for  the  vilest  purposes,  for  his  own  per- 
sonal gain.  A  widow,  among  the  Mpongwis  is  by  law 
forbidden  to  re-marry,  and  compelled  to  degrade  herself, 
the  proceeds  of  which  go  toward  the  support  of  her  male 
relatives ;  this,  however,  does  not  affect  her  social  stand- 
ing, and  she  still  continues  to  mingle  on  terms  of  equality 
with  the  other  women  of  the  village. 

A  personage  who  plays  a  very  conspicuous  part  among 
the  natives,  is  the  Fetich  man.  In  cases  where  they 
have  suspicion  of  guilt,  but  no  evidence,  the  suspected 
party  has  to  submit  to  the  test  ordeal,  for  which  purpose 
he  is  brought  before  the  Fetich  man  (or,  as  he  is  called, 
Mumbo  Jumbo),  he  being  the  gentleman  who  has  charge 
of  that  "  Department  of  Justice."  Among  them  they 
have  several  tests,  but  their  favorite   ones   are  a   strong 


OF     THE     TICONDEROGA.  25 

poison  made  from  the  bark  of  the  Sassa-wood  tree,  and 
the  hot  iron.  In  a  case  of  the  former,  a  large  dose  of 
the  poison  is  administered  to  the  accused ;  should  it 
sicken  him  and  his  stomach  reject  it  he  is  considered  in- 
nocent ;  but  if  he  succeeds  in  keeping  it  down  and 
becomes  affected  by  the  poison  he  is  considered  guilty. 
In  the  iron  test,  the  iron  is  applied  to  the  flesh  while  red 
hot ;  if  it  fails  to  burn  it  is  a  proof  of  innocence,  but,  on 
the  contrary,  if  it  burns,  the  guilt  of  the  accused  is 
established-  During  these  performances  (which  always 
take  place  at  night)  the  whole  village  is  compelled  to  be 
present,  and,  on  the  first  intimation  of  guilt,  the  accused 
M  speedily  dispatched  with  clubs.  As,  in  these  trials,  the 
evidence  of  guilt  or  innoeence  is  always  ocular  there  is 
aao  appeal.  One  might  think  that  to  appear  before  the 
court  was  only  to  insure  conviction,  but  such  is  not  the 
case,  for  u  Mumbo  Jumbo,"  though  he  holds  a  powerful 
sway,  is  but  mortal,  and  is  said  to  possess  a  knowledge 
of  herbs  whicli  counteract  the  effects  of  the  poison  or  the 
action  of  the  iron.  The  guilt  or  innocence  of  the 
.accused  generally  depends  (as  it  sometimes  does  in  more 
enlightened  countries)  upon  how  the  accused  is  "  fixed," 
or  how  far  he  will  "  come  up."  If  willing  to  "see"  the 
court,  his  case  is  made  "solid,"  but  should  he  prove 
unable,  he  is  likely  to  discover  that  poverty  is  very 
inconvenient,  even  in  Africa.  How  the  medicine  is 
prepared,  that  is  warranted  not  to  kill,  is  only  known  to 
"  Jumbo."  I  only  know  that  the  dose  one  of  their 
stomachs  rejects  must  be  truly  a  vile  one.  The  native  is 
but  little,  if  anything,  above  the  brute.  He  displays  no 
inventive  power;  there  is  no  such  thing  as  a  native 
industry  ;  his  wealth   is  provided   by  nature,  and  even 


26  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

then  be  is  too  indolent  to  gather  it,  but  compels  that 
nearer  approach  to  brute  creation,  his  r/ife,  to  do  it. 
Josh  Billings  says  :  "  I  never  saw  but  one  good  injuny 
and  that  was  a  dead  one,"  a  term  equally  applicable  to 
the  nigger.  This  is  the  country  we  have  been  visiting. 
These  are  the  people  with  whom  we  would  form  a  com- 
mercial intercourse,  and  compete  in  a  trade  ab-eady  more 
than  monopolized  by  England,  France,  and  Germany. 
The  coast  of  Africa  may  become  whitened  by  the  sails  of 
America,  but  it  will  be  after  the  Thirteenth  Amendment 
to  the  Constitution  has  been  repealed,  a  probability  not 
very  encouraging  to  American  ship-builders. 

Before  the  west  coast  of  Africa  can  develop  any  com- 
mercial greatness  the   people  will  have  to   be  brought 
within  the  bounds   of  civilization.     To  bring  about  this, 
two  methods  have  been  resorted  to  :    First,  a  colony  of 
American   negroes    has    been   established,   in    hopes    of 
bringing  the  native   within  the  fold,  by  holding  up  the 
better  condition  of  the  emigrant  as  an  inducement  to 
labor ;  this  has  proved  an  utter  failure,  for  no  sooner 
were  the  colonists  thoroughly  established  than  they  not 
only  became  equally  as  indolent,  but  began  to  consider 
themselves  "  Lords  of  the   land,"  and  their  treatment  of 
the   natives    soon   brought    them    into  dislike.     In  the 
second  place,  numerous  missionaries  have  been  distributed 
throughout  the   coast,  in  hopes  that  they  might  chris- 
tianize them.     This,  if  anything,  is  a  greater  failure  than 
the  first,  for,  though  their  mission  houses  may  be  well 
attended   on    Sunday,  and    their   schools  thronged   the 
week,  they   make   no   actual  converts.     A  native  will 
embrace  Christianity  just  sojong  as  he  is  taken  care  of, 
and  is  willing  to  be  baptised  every  day,  if  it  were  only  to 


OF    THE    TICONDEBOGA.  27 

have  some  one  to  wash  him  ;  or  he  will  refrain  from 
eating  meat  on  Friday  if  he  is  furnished  with  some  other 
edible  upon  which  he  can  gormandize ;  but  once  throw 
him  upon  his  own  resources  and  he  again  becomes  a 
"  nigger,"  again  a  heathen. 


28  THE    PILGRIMAGE 


CHAPTER  VI. 


ST.    HELENA. 

After  a  stay  of  nine  days  at  Loando,  the  coast  fever 
broke  out  with  great  virulence  among  the  crew,  so  our 
departure  for  St.  Helena  was  hastened.     It  was  thought 
that  when  once  out  in  the  cool,  fresh  sea  air  the  disease 
would  disappear,  but  such  did  not  prove  to  be  the  case. 
Our  long  stay  on  the  coast  had  so  far  emaciated  the  crew 
as  to  make  them  an  easy  prey  for  its  ravages,  and  one  by 
one  had  to  succumb,  until  two-thirds  of  the  crew  were 
laid  up  at  one  time.     Fortunately,  our  passage  was  a  very 
pleasant  one,  otherwise  some  difficulty  might  have  been 
experienced  in  working  the  ship.     Early  on  the  morning 
of  the  21st  the  island  was  sighted.     The  cry  of  "Land 
ho ! "  was  welcome  news  to  all  except  one,  who  at  that 
time,  let  us  hope,  was  gazing  upon  a  brighter  shore,  for 
the  same  breeze  that   had  wafted  us  so  pleasantly  on  our 
way  during  the  night,  had  sighed  the  eternal  requiem  of 
Francis   Huxley,  whose  remains  were  consigned  to   the 
grave  after  coming  to  anchor.     In  a  few  days  after,  E. 
T.  Fleck,  who  had  been  sick  for  some  time,  paid   that 
debt  which  devolves  alike  upon  all,  and  was  laid  by  his 
side.     They  were  both  naval  apprentices,  promising  men, 
and  liked  by  all. 

The  coast  fever  not  being  classed  among  contagious 
diseases,  no  restriction  was  placed  upon  our  intercourse 
with  the  shore.     So  no  sooner  had   the  Medical   Officer 


OV     THE     TICONDEROGA.  29 

left  us  than  we  were  besieged  by  "  bum-boats,"  laden  with 
every  imaginable  edible — fresh  eggs,  milk,  fruits,  and 
vegetables  gathered  upon  the  island,  besides  a  large 
assortment  of  canned  stuffs,  such  as  preserves,  meats,  etc., 
among  which  could  be  found  even  that  delicious  Yankee 
gastronomic  speciality,  baked  beans.  Though  our  num- 
bers were  small,  our  charge  was  so  determined  that  in  a 
short  time  the  "  bum-boats"  were  forced  to  retire  in  a  de- 
moralized condition. 

The  island  of  St.  Helena  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the 
south-east  trade  winds.  It  was  first  discovered  and  taken 
possession  of  by  the  Portugese,  afterwards  owned  alter- 
nately by  the  Dutch  and  English,  until  it  finally  became 
wholly  an  English  colony.  Its  great  historical  interest  is 
its  being  the  island  to  which  the  Emperor  Napoleon  was 
exiled,  and  where  he  ended  his  days.  Everyone  visiting 
St.  Helena  is,  as  a  matter  of  course,  expected  to  make  a 
pilgrimage  to  the  tomb  of  Napoleon,  and  also  pay  a  visit 
to  Longwood,  his  residence.  According  to  history,  it 
seems  the  Emperor  did  not  enjoy  his  sojourn  on  the 
island,  and  those  who  had  charge  of  his  safe  keeping  have 
been  accused  of  heaping  many  unnecessary  indignities 
upon  him,  while  on  the  other  hand  it  is  stated  that  the 
then  Governor,  Sir  Hudson  Howe,  did  not  find  his  charge 
of  a  very  amiable  disposition,  but  done  everything  in  his 
power  to  make  the  exile  of  the  Emperor  as  pleasant  as 
possible.  The  main  difficulty  between  them  seems  to 
have  been  in  the  manner  of  address.  Napoleon  could 
not  or  would  not  realize  the  idea  that  he  was  no  longer 
an  Emperor,  and  the  Governor  could  only  see  in  him 
plain  Napoleon  Bonaparte,  and  so  styled  him.  No  doubt 
he  found  it  sufficiently  galling  to  be  continually  under  the 
surveillance  of  an  English  soldier,  but  when  the  last  in- 


30  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

dignity  was  added,  the  burden  became  greater  than  human 
nature  could  bear,  so  under  these  real  or  imaginary 
grievances  he  succumbed,  April,  1821,  after  an  exile  of  a 
little  over  five  years,  he  having  arrived  at  St.  Helena 
October,  1815.  He  was  buried  on  the  island,  where  he 
remained  until  1840,  when  his  body  was  conveyed  with 
great  pomp  to  Paris.  This  empty  tomb  is  visited  almost 
daily  by  persons  calling  at  St.  Helena,  and  the  most 
trifling  memento,  such  as  a  leaf,  twig,  flower,  or  pebble, 
gathered  anywhere  in  the  vicinity  of  this  (to  some)  sacred 
spot,  is  held  in  the  greatest  veneration.  Happily,  a 
French  officer  in  charge  of  the  place  keeps  these  man- 
worshippers  within  bounds,  or  the  tomb  itself  would  have 
disappeared  ere  this. 

In  St.  Helena  eveiybody  and  everything  is  in  some 
way,  directly  or  indirectly,  associated  with  the  "illus- 
trious exile."  It  is  a  kind  of  mania,  and  the  people  have 
got  it  bad.  One  of  our  boys  dropped  into  a  drug  store  to 
purchase  a  tooth  brush,  when,  by  way  of  recommenda- 
tion, the  owner  of  the  establishment  selected  one  from 
among  the  number  as  that  used  by  His  Majesty  the  Em- 
peror during  his  exile  upon  the  island.  The  above  is  only 
a  trifling  illustration  of  the  affliction  under  which  the 
people  labor. 

Here  was  spent  the  "  Glorious  Fourth"  At  daybreak, 
in  addition  to  the  usual  bunting,  the  national  ensign  was 
displayed  at  each  mast-head,  which  constitutes  the  present 
"regulation  dress."  At  noon,  a  salute  of  twenty-one 
guns  was  fired,  and  as  the  ship  had  fired  a  salute  on  the 
28th  June,  in  commemoration  of  the  day  upon  which  the 
"  Widow  Guelph"  had  first  donned  her  regal  robes,  the 
battery  on  shore  returned  the  compliment  by  assisting  us 


OF    THE     TICONDEROGA.  31 

to  commemorate  the  day  upon  which  we  had  learned  to 
do  without  them. 

The  people  of  St.  Helena,  or,  as  they  are  termed, 
**  Yamstocks,"  are  a  mixture  of  all  nationalities.  They 
number  about  5,000,  independent  of  the  military  at  the 
station.  The  wealth  is  confined  to  a  few.  Among  the 
laboring  class;  a  majority  of  the  men  follow  a  seafaring 
life,  so  in  numbers  the  women  predominate,  and  it  is  said 
of  the  rising  generation  "  Smart  is  the  child  that  knoweth 
its  own  father."  Perhaps  the  greatest  surprise  accorded 
us  here  was  a  poem  which  appeared  in  the  St.  Helena 
Guardian,  entitled  "The  Wanderer."  At  first  we  were 
electrified.  Who  was  he  %  Under  what  bushel  had  his 
poetical  light  so  long  been  hid  1     Upon  elose  inspection 

eould  be  discovered  the  name  G K .     The  poem 

describes  the  ship  in  a  terrific  gale.  A  huge  sea  is  about 
to  engulf  her.  The  crew,  terror-stricken,  have  lost  all 
hope,  and  are  seeking  aid  from  the  Omnipotent.  He  alone 
rises  above  the  common  herd,  and  "  when  others  pray," 
he  only  "  smiles  upon  the  storm."  The  sublime  egotism 
he  uses  in  depicting  this  scene,  not  only  stamps  him  a 
genius,  but  one  of  the  most  modest  of  poets.  The  "  Wan- 
derer" called  forth  a  spicy  little  repartee,  entitled  "  Hoop 
La."     Since  then  nothing  has  been  heard  of  our  poet. 

After  a  stay  of  nearly  a  month,  the  health  of  the  crew 
was  sueh  as  to  warrant  our  continuing  our  journey,  so  on 
•July  19th  we  bid  the  island  farewell. 


32  THE    PILGRIMAGE 


CHAPTER  VII. 


*    CAJPE    TOWN. 

Except,  an  occasional  whpie"  coming  up  to  bio wr  or  a 
porpoise  taking  a  quiet  tranble  t©>  himself,,  nothing 
occurred  to  mar  the  monotony  of  our  passage-  to  the 
"  Cape,,"  so  on;  August  4thr  we  arrived  safe  in  Table  Bay. 
The  Cape  Colony,  of  which  Cape  Town  is  the  capital,  was 
formerly  owned  by  the  Dutch;,  many  of  whom  still  retain 
their  nationality,,  and  between  them  and  the  English,  the 
most  amicable  feeling  does  not  exist.  J  have  been  informed 
that  in  the  interior,,  an  Englishman,  while  traveling, 
finds  it  almost  an  impossibility  to  procure  accommoda- 
tions for  himself  and  horses,  while  persons  of  other 
nationalities  have  always  reason  to  speak  highly  of  their 
hospitality. 

The  Dutch  and  English  dislike  each  other;  the  Hot- 
tentot and  Kaffir  (the  true  aborigines)  hate  their  white 
oppressors  ;  while  tlie  Mohammedan  portion  of  the  popu- 
lation look  with  contempt  alike  upon  the  Christian  dog 
and  pagan  Kegro ;  so  it  may  be  said  that  in  Cape  Town,, 
brotherly  love  reigns  supreme. 

Among  the  industries  of  the  coloaay r  the  principal  are 
the  vine  culture,  from  which  large  quantities  of  wine  is, 
manufactured  and  exported  yearly,,  wool  raising  and 
ostrich  farming* 

Cape  Town  is  situated  in  Table  Bay,  and  sheltered  by 
Table  Mountain,,  which  rises  1,582  feet  above  the   level 


OF     THE     T1CONDEROGA.  33 

of  the  sea.  It  being  the  most  accessible  point  to  the 
diamond  fields,  a  considerable  number  of  strangers  are 
continually  passing  through  it,  but  this  influx  of  visitors 
does  not  prevent  it  from  being  dreadfully  dull ;  in  fact, 
the  only  amusement  offered  during  our  stay  was  a  "  cir- 
cus," which,  though  well  patronized,  and  nightly 
applauded,  was  to  those  acquainted  with  "  Barnum," 
sadly  colonial.  Here  the  ship  was  hauled  alongside  the 
wharf,  where  she  was  daily  crowded  by  visitors  anxious 
to  look  at  the  great  "  Yankee  war  ship,"  the  one  in 
whose  wake  the  commercial  greatness  of  all  nations  would 
wither,  and  who  would  convert  the  great  ocean  into  a 
mere  bay  upon  which  alone  the  star-spangled  banner 
would  float. 

After  a  stay  of  about  a  month,  during  which  time  the 
ship  had  received  some  repairs,  we  took  our  departure  for 
the  East  Coast. 


34  THE    PILGRIMAGE 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


EAST    COAST    OP    AFRICA. 

During  the  passage  from  Cape  Town  to  Madagascar, 
one  afternoon,  a  sail  was  sighted,  and  as  quite  a  fresh 
breeze  was  blowing  at  the  time,  it  was  not  long  before 
the  stranger  was  alongside.  Upon  our  showing  our  colors 
he  in  answer  also  showed  the  "banner  of  the  free."  Of 
course  the  idea  of  an  American  ship  being  on  this  coast 
before  we  had  opened  it  up  to  commerce,  was  too  great  a 
compliment  to  our  power  to  be  entertained  any 
further  than  a  capital  joke.  I  suppose  some  jovial 
old  sea  captain  found  in  this  an  excellent  oppor- 
tunity to  give  vent  to  his  feelings.  The  joke  was 
a  good  one,  though  it  was  rather  galling  to  know 
we  were  not  the  sole  possessors  of  all  the  Ameri- 
can flags  in  existence. "  We  called  at  several  ports  along 
the  southern  portion  of  the  Island  of  Madagascar,  and 
while  there,  entered  into  a  treaty  with  the  King,  in 
which  he  is  to  offer  protection  to  all  Americans  who  may 
wish  to  trade  or  who  may  l)e  wrecked  upon  his  coast. 
He  received  an  American  flag  from  the  ship,  which  he 
hoisted  to  the  breeze  from  the  roof  of  his  hen-coop,  there 
to  remain  (when  not  used  to  gird  the  loins  of  some  young 
sable  lord)  an  everlasting  beacon  for  the  guidance  of 
future  American  navigators. 

This  King,  though  well  advanced  in  years,  is  said  to 
possess  a  considerable  knowledge   of  the  advantages  of 


OF    THE     TICONDEfcOGA.  35 

trade,  and  also  of  men,  and  always  offers  a  warm  reception 
to  the  merchant  and  missionary.  Of  the  former  class  he 
prefers  the  American,  as  he  considers  them  the  most 
enterprising ;  of  the  latter  class  he  gives  the  Jesuits  his 
preference,  as  they  are  generally  more'fat  and  palatable  than 
the  Protestant.  We  at  least  found  all  his  subjects  anxious 
for  trade.  Everything  they  own,  from  their  wives  to 
their  assageis,  are  for  sale,  the  largest  piece  of  money 
always  procuring  the  largest  amount,  and  it  was  astonish- 
ing after  a  little  practice,  the  rapidity  with  which  a 
penny  could  be  converted  (to  the  eye  of  the  native)  into  a 
bona  fide  silver  dollar.  To  some,  this  mode  of  traffic 
might  seem  objectionable,  but  then  we  wished  to  initiate 
them  into  the  ways  of  the  civilized  man  for  their  own 
personal  benefit ;  consequently  the  magnitude  of  the  ends 
which  we  wished  to  attain  justified  the  doubtfulness  of 
the  means. 

From  Madagascar  we  went  to  the  Island  of  Johanna, 
of  the  Comoro  group,  where  we  remained  a  few  days, 
thence  to  Zanzibar,  where  we  arrived  October  9  th, 
During  our  stay  the  Sultan  paid  a  visit  to  the  ship,  and 
was  received  with  all  the  honors  due  his  rank.  He  is 
said  to  be  a  man  of  more  advanced  and  liberal  ideas  than 
most  of  his  Mohammedan  brethren,  and  has  reformed 
many  of  the  political  and  religious  prejudices  existing 
among  his  people.  He  is  undoubtedly  laboring  hard  for 
the  elevation  of  his  country.  Though  up  hill  work,  the 
progress  he  has  already  made  in  addition,  division  and 
silence,  and  other  difficult  problems  of  political  economy, 
are  sufficient  to  instil  hopes  for  the  future. 

Here  we  remained  two  weeks,  and  after  the  exchange 
of  a  multitude  of  salutes,  receptions,   etc.,  and  feeling 


36  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

confident  that  the  superiority  of  the  American  eagle  over 
all  other  birds,  was  thoroughly  established  on  the  East 
Coast,  we  bid  farewell  to  Africa,  and  took  our  departure 
for  Aden, 


OF     THE     TICONDEROGA.  37 


CHAPTER  IX. 


SEARCHING    FOR    COMMERCE   AMONG    THE   ARABS', 

In  Aden,  an  English  port  and  mere  stopping  place  for 
steamers  bound  to  and  from  India,  we  did  not  expect  to 
find  much ;  but,  we  had  bid  farewell  to  savage  Africa,  so 
this  was  the  commencement  of  a  new  departure.  After 
replenishing  our  bunkers,  and  purchasing  a  few  ostrich 
feathers,  at  about  twice  their  New  York  value,  we  pro- 
ceeded eastward  to  Muscat,  a  small  fortified  town  on  the 
coast  of  Arabia,  whose  forts  the  English  have  perforated 
from  time  to  time  in  hopes  of  admitting  a  little  of  the 
light  of  the  outer  world  upon  their  inmates. 

The  place  we  found  like  most  Arab  towns,  with  narrow, 
filthy  streets,  which,  though  cleaner  than  some,  were  yet 
not  sufficiently  so  to  make  their  nationality  a  matter  of 
doubt. 

Here  it  became  known  that  we  were  to  make  a  cruise 
tip  the  Persian  G-ulf.  I,  for  one,  received  the  information 
with  delight ;  we  would  now  have  an  opportunity  of  wit- 
nessing the  splendor  of  the  Orient.  True,  I  had  been 
disappointed  in. Africa,  my  juvenile  impression  of  that 
people  (principally  gathered  from  the  illuminated  cover  of 
a  Buchu  bottle),  had  received  a  severe  shock,  but  with 
the  country  we  were  now  going  to  visit  there  was 
no  discount ;  it  bordered  on  the  land  of  Abraham,  Isaac 
and  Jacob.  I  had  seen  it  illustrated  in  my  Sunday- 
school  book — there  was  no  room  for  doubt. 


38  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

On  the  evening  of  November  2  2d,  after  taking  a  pilot 
on  board,  we  proceeded  on  our  way  rejoicing.  On  the 
following  evening  we  entered  the  Straits  of  Ormuz,  and 
after  wending  our  way  through  numerous  small  islands, 
arrived  the  next  day  at  Bunder-el- Abbas,  where  we  re- 
mained all  night,  proceeding  the  next  morning  to  Ormuz, 
which  place  has  the  reputation  of  once  being  the  wealthiest 
city  of  the  East.  It  was  taken  possession  of  by  the  Portu- 
guese, and  by  them  strongly  fortified,  but  was  afterwards 
bombarded  by  the  English,  and  destroyed.  Now,  but  a 
mass  of  ruins  remain  to  mark  the  wealth  of  Ormuz — -the 
power  of  Portugal  and  the  avarice  of  Great  Britain. 

From  here  we  went  to  Bushire,  where  we  arrived, 
after  laying  two  days  wind-bound  at  Dayyer,  on  the  2d 
of  December.  Of  this  place,  we  saw  but  little,  as  our  stay 
was  short.  Our  journey  so  far  had  been  along  a  country 
barren  of  vegetation ;  the  excuse  that  it  had  been  subjected 
to  the  contaminating  influences  of  the  outer  world,  was 
not  sufficient  to  keep  our  faith  from  wavering-  For- 
tunately, on  the  evening  of  the  5th,  we  anchored  in  the 
mouth  of  the  Euphrates  River,  and  at  a  most  opportune 
time — just  as  the  dark  verdure  of  the  date  groves  caught 
the  last  rays  of  the  setting  sun.  The  scene  was  magnifi- 
cent ;  our  hopes  were  revived  ;  we  were  reassured.  The 
next  morning  we  ascended  the  river  as  far  as  Bassorah, 

In  company  with  a  friend,  I  paid  the  city  (which  is 
situated  on  the  banks  of  a  small  creek,  about  three  miles 
from  the  river),  a  visit.  The  tide  being  out,  necessitated 
our  procuring  the  assistance  of  a  couple  of  asses,  and  to 
our  lot  fell  two  most  antiquated  specimens  of  that  quad- 
ruped. The  owner  assured  me  that  mine,  though  perhaps 
not  very  good  looking,  was  extremely  fleet. 

Had  he  assured  me  that  it  was  the  original  ass  that 


OF    THE     TICONDEROGA.  39 

Joseph  and  Maiy  to  escape  the  wrath  of  Herod  had  used 
in  their  flight  to  Egypt,  I  should  have  had  much  less 
grounds  for  doubt  ;  however,  they  answered  the  purpose, 
and  with  the  assistance  of  two  Arabs,  one  pulling  and  the 
other  pushing,  we  succeeded  in  accomplishing  the  distance 
of  three  miles  in  two  hours. 

We  had  now  seen  the  Arab  steed — had  experienced 
his  fleetness.  What  next  ]  We  had  not  long  to  wait,  for 
upon  entering  the  gates  of  the  city  we  were  assailed,  to 
use  the  flowery  language  of  the  country,  by  one  of  those 
spice-laden  breezes.  In  America,  this  article  of  perfume 
is  called  "sewer  gas,"  but  here  the  term  would  be  inap- 
propriate, as  sewers  are  unknown. 

Once  inside  the  city,  we  began  to  prospect  it,  and  after 
wandering  among  a  people  blessed  with  every  degree  of 
poverty,  misery  and  affliction,  through  narrow,  filthy 
streets,  filled  with  animal  matter  in  all  stages  of  decom- 
position, inhabited  by  mendicant  Arabs  and  mangy  curs, 
we  bethought  ourselves  of  a  hotel  where  we  might  enjoy 
a  luxurious  repast — delicate  viands,  golden  platter,  black 
slaves,  etc.  Upon  making  inquiry  we  were  shown  and 
ushered  into  a  building  about  the  size  of  an  ordinary 
Saratoga  trunk,  which  contained  but  one  room,  answering 
for  sleeping,  eating  and  cooking  apartment.  We  were 
informed  by  "  mine  host "  that  the  only  edible  the  estab- 
lishment afforded  was  beefsteak,  to  which  we  consented. 

In  a  few  minutes  a  sable  dame  made  her  appearance 
and  commenced  to  revive  some  dying  embers  in  one  corner 
of  the  room ;  this  done,  she  dived  into  the  coal  box  and 
yanked  out  a  hunk  of  what  was  supposed  to  be  beef,  and 
cut  from  it  two  transparent  slices.  Now  began  a  hunt 
for  the  cooking  utensils.  At  last  she  was  compelled  to 
go  out  and  borrow.     During  her  absence  the  flies  began 


40  THK    PILGRIMAGE 

to  build  on  the  steak ;  she  returned  armed  with  a  frying- 
pan  ;  she  then  went  for  the  flies,  and  after  leaving  about 
twenty  of  their  quivering  bodies  glued  to  eaoh  piece,  pro- 
ceeded to  deposit  them  on  the  fire.  Steak  No.  1  landed 
safe,  No.  2  fell  short — the  dog  grabbed  it. 

Now  commenced  a  genuine  struggle  for  its  possession  ; 
sometimes  gal  up,  sometimes  dog  up.  The  chances  were 
so  even  that  we  could  not  resist  making  a  bet  on  the 
issue,  but  as  our  time  was  limited  and  the  battle  likely  to 
be  a  lasting  one,  we  had  to  draw  and  take  our  leave,  but 
not  before  expressing  an  earnest  wish  that  the  best  man 
might  win. 

Upon  regaining  the  banks  of  the  river  and  awaiting 
the  boat  to  convey  me  to  the  ship,  the  thoughts  that 
prompted  themselves  were  :  can  this  be  the  beautiful 
land  of  which  I  have  dreamed,  the  land  upon  which  the 
first  man,  my  noble  ancestor,  trod  %  Can  that  piratical- 
looking  villian,  sitting  astride  of  an  ass,  be  the  noble 
Arab  of  whom  I  read,  who,  disdaining  the  white  man's 
gold,  mounts  his  steed  and  flees  o'er  his  native  desert]  Is 
that  black-and-taii  damsel,  with  a  Holman  liver-pad  sus- 
pended over  her  mouth,  the  one  I  learned  to  love — a 
maiden,  the  effulgence  of  whose  beauty  outshone  the  radi- 
ance of  the  sun '?  If  so,  then  farewell  my  boyhood  dreams, 
farewell  idols  of  my  youth,  you  must  now  be  torn  down 
and  cast  under  foot.  To  part  with  these  was  like  bidding 
adieu  to  a  dearest  friend  I  was  like  Rachel  weeping  for 
her  children  ;  I  would  not  be  comforted  because  they 
were  not.  At  last  relief  came,  the  floodgates  of  my  heart 
were  opened,  I  found  consolation  in  tears. 

The  people  are  followers  of  Mohamet.  In  the  observ- 
ance of  the  forms  of  their  religion  they  are  very  strict; 
but  like  the  wayfarers   on  other  celestial  routes,  they  do 


OF     THE     TICONDEROGA.  41 

not  follow  its  precepts.  In  the  Mohammedan  belief  the 
wicked,  on  the  final  day  of  judgment,  will  assume  the 
forms  of  hogs ;  whether  they  will  outnumber  the  Christian 
goats  upon  that  day  is  doubtful,  yet  it  is  probable  that 
their  combined  numbers  will  be  sufficient  to  give  his 
Satanic  Majesty  a  "  corner  "  in  the  market. 

In  matters  of  dress  the  sexes  dress  much  alike,  though 
easily  distinguished  by  the  covering  worn  over  the  face 
by  the  woman.  It  is  asserted  that  this  covering  is  worn 
for  the  purpose  of  hiding  their  beauty,  but  I  have  been 
informed  that  the  custom  originated  from  an  injunction 
in  the  Koran,  in  which  all  good  Mohammedans  are  guarded 
against  being  led  astray  by  the  babbling  of  women.  So, 
to  insure  themselves  against  this  danger,  they  compel 
their  women  to  wear  this  muzzle.  I  refrain  from  com- 
menting upon  the  usefulness  of  this  article  of  female 
attire  father  than  that  "caudle"  lectures  and  family 
broils  are  said  to  be  things  unknown  to  an  Arab  house- 
hold. 

The  main  riches  of  the  gulf  is  its  pearl  fishery,  an 
industry  which  affords  employment  for  many  and  wealth 
to  a  few.  The  divers  can  only  go  down  at  certain  and 
short  periods  of  the  year;  the  remainder  of  the  time  they 
are  idle,  aid  at  the  mercy  of  the  merchant  to  whom  they 
sell  their  pearls,  and  who  furnishes  them  with  the  neces- 
saries of  life  at  such  exorbitant  prices  that  even  after  a 
good  season  they  find  themselves  in  debt,  which  continues 
to  accumulate  from  year  to  year,  during  which  time  the 
merchant  becomes  wealthy,  while  the  man  who  risks  the 
dangers  of  the  deep  in  recovering  riches  from  its  depths, 
lives  a  serf  and  dies  wealthy  only  in  what  he  owes. 

In  speaking  of  wealth,  I  may  say  that  here,  to  be  rich, 
is  dangerous.     I  have  heard  of  an  instance  in  which  an 


42  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

Arab  had  succeeded  in  accumulating  a  goodly  portion  of 
worldly  goods,  build  himself  a  mansion  and  began  to  en- 
joy all  the  etceteras  of  a  merchant  prince  ;  this  excited 
the  jealousy  of  the  pasha,  and  from  that  day  he  was  a 
shadowed  man.  As  nothing  could  be  brought  against  his 
character  as  a  citizen,  the  pasha  was  compelled  to  seek 
assistance  in  that  which  never  yet  failed  human  being — 
his  bible — and  soon  the  intended  victim  was  brought  be- 
fore the  court  charged  with  neglect  in  religious  observ- 
ances, when  he  was  informed  that  in  addition  to  being 
made  a  porker  in  the  next  world  he  would  be  made  a 
pauper  in  this.  The  dread  of  the  authorities  in  this  mat- 
ter is  so  great  that  in  walking  the  street  it  is  difficult  to 
distinguish  the  mendicant  from  the  millionaire. 

Our  mission  here  was  about  ended ;  we  came,  we  saw, 
it  was  now  time  to  leave.  On  the  morning  of  the  15th 
we  departed  for  Bombay. 


OF     THE     TICONDEROGA.  43 


CHAPTER  X. 


BOMBAY. 

The  morning  of  the  27th  found  us,  after  disentangling 
ourselves  from  among  an  innumerable  number  of  fish 
poles,  entering  the  harbor  of  Bombay,  which  is  one  of,  if 
not  the  principal  port  of  India.  The  city,  though  large, 
is  not  handsome.  Outside  of  the  public  buildings  she 
has  no  structure  of  which  to  boast. 

The  event  of  note  after  our  arrival  was  the  opening  of 
the  "  Princess  Dock,"  which  took  place  January  1st.  It 
had  been  ready  for  some  time,  but  was  delayed  that  the 
day  that  marks  the  advent  of  a  new  year  might  also 
mark  the  new  era  in  the  commercial  history  of  Bombay. 
Independent  of  this,  January  1st  ranks  among  the 
holidays  of  India,  for,  upon  that  day,  a  year  prior,  Queen 
Victoria,  to  better  the  condition  of  her  Indian  subjects, 
consented  to  the  title  of  "  Empress  of  India "  being 
coupled  with  the  proud  one  of  "  Queen  of  Britain." 
Since  then  the  people  have  been  happy. 

Here,  not  being  acquainted  with  the  city  and  not 
having  the  most  distant  idea  of  the  Hindoo  language, 
necessitated  the  assistance  of  a  guide  in  the  labor  of 
procuring  a  sight  of  the  "  elephant."  If  a  person  visiting 
a  foreign  country  has  fears  of  being  cheated  he  can  easily 
remove  them  by  engaging  a  guide,  and  thus  make  them 
a  certainty.  As  a  rule  they  are  smart  and  shrewd,  and 
can  arrive  at  the  moral   and  financial    status   of    their 


44 


THE    PILGRIMAGE 


victim  in  a  comparatively  short  time.  If  you  succeed  in 
procuring  a  first-class  guide  your  troubles  are  ended  ;  he 
can  anticipate  your  wants,  and  will  never  tire  in  showing 
you  places  where  articles  are  almost  given  away.  Should 
you  conclude  to  make  a  purchase  you  are  invariably 
shown  into  an  establishment  where  the  only  language 
spoken  is  that  with  which  you  are  the  least  acquainted. 
This  necessitates  the  guide  doing  all  the  talking.  He 
informs  the  merchant  of  what  you  desire,  how  you  are 
fixed  and  about  the  value  of  your  experience,  all  of  which 
you  understand  not  a  single  word.  He  then,  addressing 
you  in  your  native  tongue,  informs  you  of  the  price,  but 
adds  that  it  is  entirely  too  much,  and  that  they  are 
trying  to  take  advantage  of  you  on  account  of  being  a 
stranger,  every  word  of  which  the  merchant  understands. 
Finally,  after  much  talking,  assumed  anger,  etc.,  you 
become  the  happy  possessor  of  an  article  at  about  one- 
quarter  of  what  was  first  asked,  and  at  about  twice  its 
actual  value,  and  go  forth  feeling  as  if  under  a  debt  of 
eternal  gratitude  to  your  guide  for  so  thoroughly  guarding 
your  interests. 

One  evening  my  attention  was  attracted  by  a  torch- 
light procession.  At  first  I  took  but  little  notice  of  it, 
as,  in  my  native  ignorance,  I  supposed  it  to  be  a  political 
parade,  a  hose  company,  or  something  of  that  kind,  until 
it  began  to  pass,  when  I  noticed  that  the  sexes  were 
about  evenly  divided  in  the  ranks,  and  in  addition  to  a 
gutter-snipe  band  and  Chinese  lanterns  the  people  had 
their  go-to-meeting  clothes  on.  I  was  satisfied  that  its 
complexion  was  not  political,  for  the  Hindoos  are  above 
such  follies  as  woman's  rights,  so  I  chalked  it  down 
Sunday  School.  The  following  day,  in  referring  to  the 
missionary  labor  among  the   Hindoos  to  a  gentleman  in 


OF     THE     TICONDEROGA.  45 

Bombay,  I  mentioned  the  gratification  I  had  experienced 
in  witnessing  a  Sunday  School  procession  on  the  previous 
evening,  when  he  informed  me  that  that  which  I  had 
seen  was  a  wedding  festival,  which,  among  the  wealthy, 
are  kept  up  for  weeks,  also,  that  the  poorer  classes  in 
attempting  to  emulate  the  manners  of  their  more  fortu- 
nate brethren  carry  it  to  such  an  excess  that  it  takes  the 
remainder  of  their  lives  to  defray  the  expense.  Turning 
to  his  native  clerk,  who  had  been  newly  married,  he 
asked  him  how  long  did  he  think  it  would  take  him  to 
pay  for  his  wedding,  to  which  he  coolly  answered:  At  my 
present  salary  about  fifty-four  years.  Just  fifty-four 
years  in  debt  for  the  pleasure  of  having  a  mother-in-law. 

If  a  Hindoo,  when  he  takes  upon  himself  the  great 
responsibility  of  life,  enjoys  having  the  fact  made  known 
by  all  ostentations  and  show,  he  is  none  the  less  particular 
when  he  forever  shakes  them  off.  When  he  has  cast  his 
last  die,  handed  in  his  last  chip,  his  friends  do  not  consign 
him  to  a  tomb,  there  to  remain  in  ignorance  until  the 
final  day,  nor  do  they  erect  a  costly  stone  and  publish 
upon  its  face  that  all  the  veracity  of  the  family  lies 
buried  with  him.  No  !  they  have  more  respect  for  the 
feelings  of  their  dead;  they  prepare  them  for  the  change. 
A  pile  of  wood  is  erected,  varying  from  one  to  two  and 
a  half  cords,  according  to  rank.  Upon  this  the  corpse  is 
laid,  after  which  the  match  is  applied.  Oil  is  poured 
upon  it  by  a  priest  who  has  charge  of  the  culinary 
department.  But  even  death  does  not  level  all  distinc- 
tions, for  side  by  side  may  be  seen  two  brothers,  one 
wafted  on  his  way  by  the  odors  of  costly  woods  and  oils, 
while  the  other  is  taking  his  foretaste  of  a  blissful 
hereafter  upon  the  dilapidated  remains  of  an  ash-barrel. 

While  here,  was  granted  forty -eight  hours  liberty,  and 


46  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

it  was,  at  times,  astonishing  as  well  as  amusing  to  see 
how  easily  and  quickly  the  sailors  of  "  Uncle  Sam " 
became  initiated  into  the  ways  and  manners  of  the 
oriental.  One  instance  in  which  a  young  man  (I  omit 
his  name,  though  not  on  account  of  his  being  a  Jersey- 
man)  had  engaged  a  barouche,  coachman,  footman,  etc., 
all  made  to  order,  and,  while  driving  along  one  of  the 
principal  streets,  I  noticed  his  making  many  stoppages 
without  any  seeming  cause.  I  at  first  supposed  that  he 
was  experiencing  some  little  difficulty  with  his  servants, 
but  upon  the  approach  of  the  carriage  I  found  both  the 
very  personification  of  obedience.  It  was  only  upon 
questioning  the  occupant  that  my  fears~were  put  to  rest ; 
he  informing  me  that  toj  test  their  fidelity  he  caused  a 
halt  every  four  blocks,  made  them  descend,  kneel  and 
kiss  his  feet.  This  I  could  hardly  believe,  until  he  gave 
me  ocular  proof  of  his  statement. 

Here  four  of  our  men  were  sent  to  the  hospital,  among 
whom  was  the  executive  officer,  Mr.  Neilds.  One  case, 
that  of  John  Kenzel,  proved  fatal. 

On  the  12th  of  January  we  sailed  for  the  Island  of 
Ceylon,  and  arrived  at  Point-de-Galle  on  the  23d. 
This  Island  belongs  to  the  English.  Its  main  wealth  is 
its  pearl  fisheries ;  there  are  also  considerable  precious 
stones  and  ivory. 

Our  stay  was  only  for  a  few  hours,  but  this  was 
sufficient  to  allow  any  who  so  desired  to  become  the  happy 
possessor  of  an  immense  diamond,  ruby,  sapphire,  or 
emerald,  for  the  small  sum  of  about  twenty-five  cents. 
Ofj  course  they  were  guaranteed  genuine,  simon  pure, 
but  should  any  of  the  happy  victims  ever  become 
pecuniarily   embarrassed   they   may   find   it   difficult  to 


OF     THE     T1CONDEROGA.  47 

impress  the  immense  value  of  those  gems  upon  the  mind 
of  their  practical  "  Uncle." 

Having  received  our  mail  we  proceeded  on  our  way 
toward  Penang,  where  we  arrived  February  4th,  re- 
maining four  days,  when  we  sailed  for  Singapore. 


48  THE    PILGRIMAGE 


CHAPTER  XI. 


SINGAPORE. 

At  Singapore,  which  is  situated  on  an  island  of  the 
same  name  at  the  end  of  the  Malacca,  and  owned  by  the 
English,  we  arrived  on  the  12th  of  February. 

Here  was  spent  Washington's  birthday,  but  as  it  fell 
upon  Sunday  no  display  was  made.  Generally,  upon 
such  an  occasion,  the  ceremonies  attending  them  are 
postponed  until  the  following -day,  but  our  early  sailing 
on  the  23d  forbade  even  this,  so  the  natal  day  of  Wash- 
ington passed  without  public  recognitioD. 

From  here  we  went  to  Borneo,  an  island  on  the  equator, 
and  one  of  great  reputed  wealth,  producing  along  its  coast 
a  first-class  article  of  malarial  fever,  which  is  only  equaled 
by  the  cholera  of  the  interior.  Our  first  port  of  entry 
was  Bruni,  a  town  of  about  half  a  dozen  huts,  built  on 
piles  on  the  banks  of  a  creek,  which  cannot  be  approached 
nearer  than  ten  miles  by  ordinary  draft  vessels.  It  was 
the  intention,  upon  leaving  Singapore,  to  circumnavigate 
the  island,  but  the  present  and  prospective  commercial 
greatness  of  this  place  afforded  so  much  encouragement 
that  it  was  thought  advisable,  instead  of  taking  a  turn 
around  the  island,  to  take  a  turn  towards  Manilla,  where 
we  arrived  March  9th. 

Manilla  is  on  the  island  of  Luzon,  the  capital  of  the 
Phillipine  group,  and  one  of  the  possessions  of  Spain. 
One  of  the  principal  industries  of  the  place  is  the  manu- 


OF    THE     TICONDEROGA.  49 

facture  of  cigars,  which  is  wholly  under  the  control  of  the 
Government.  The  population  is  composed  principally  of 
Spaniards,  Malays,  negroes,  and  Chinamen.  During  six 
days  of  the  week  the  city  presents  quite  a  lively  appear- 
ance ;  on  the  seventh,  it  being  a  Christian  country,  no 
labor  is  allowed,  that  day  being  religiously  set  apart  for 
cock-fighting  and  prayer — a  moral  and  religious  obligation 
rigidly  observed  by  the  people. 

Manilla  also  boasts  of  some  very  fine  chapels  and  an 
ancient  cathedral  ;  a  new  one,  now  far  advanced  towards 
completion,  when  finished,  will  be  all  that  is  costly  and 
gorgeous.  All  that  the  country  wants  is  a  fair  chance 
and  her  energies  property  directed,  and  in  a  short  time 
she  will  vie  with  the  mother  country  in  the  production 
of  cathedrals  and  paupers. 

That  part  of  the  city  known  as  "  Old  Manilla"  is  for- 
tified, but  the  usefulness  of  the  walls  is  gone,  and  only 
remain  relics  of  the  past,  for  now  the  greater  part  of  the 
city  is  outside  of  them,  yet  they  are  still  kept  garrisoned. 
As  a  fighter  the  Spanish  soldier  has  some  weak  points, 
but  as  a  sentry  he  is  a  success — nothing  outside  of  an 
earthquake  will  move  him.  One  day  I  had  need  to  pass 
eleven  of  them  in  and  about  the  city,  and  only  nine  of 
them  were  asleep.  This  imparts  to  the  people  a  feeling 
of  safety.  They  know  that  when  they  retire  at  night  the 
ever  vigilant  eye  of  the  military  watches  o'er  them. 

Our  mission  being  ended,  we  took  our  departure  for 
the  land  of  the  "  Celestial "  on  March  22d. 


50  THE    PILGRIMAGE 


CHAPTER  XIL 


HONG      KONG. 

On  the  morning  of  March  26th  we  anchored  in  the 
harbor  of  Hong  Kong.  To  attempt  description  would  be 
a  waste  of  time,  as  everyone  is  more  or  less  acquaints 
ed  with  it,  and  as  to  John  Chinaman,  alas,  we 
know  him  too  much.  For  its  size  and  pretensions,  Hong 
Kong  offers  but  little  encouragement  to  pleasure  seekers 
to  repeat  their  visits.  I  wandered  about  the  city  the 
greater  part  of  a  day  trying  to  encounter  something  of 
sufficient  interest  to  glue  my  gaze  upon,  but  in  vain. 

Towards  evening  I  came  across  another  of  the  boys 
who  had  been  on  the  same  errand  as  myself,  and  with 
about  the  same  success.  After  finding  a  little  consolation 
in  each  other's  misery,  we  concluded  to  throw  ourselves 
upon  the  tender  mercies  of  a  manipulator  of  one  of  the 
most  heathenish  modes  of  locomotion  ever  devised  by 
man — a  sedan  chair — as  perhaps  he  was  better  acquainted 
with  the  town  than  we. 

We  informed  "John  "  that  we  were  "  Mayor  Kalloch  " 
and  "  Denis  Kearney  "  from  San  Francisco,  and  that  we 

were  out  on  a of  a  time  and  wanted  to  be   trotted 

around — take  in  everything — big  tent  and  side  shows, 
that  with  us  money  was  no  object;  in  fact,  we  wanted  to 
pay  more  than  any  other  man,  as  our  mission  was  to 
raise  the  pay  on  this  side,  and  change  the  tide  of  emigra- 
tion.    He  informed  us  that  our  fame  had  gone  before  us, 


OF    THE    TICONDEROGA.  51 

and  that  he  appreciated  the  honor  we  were  conferring 
upon  him,  so  we  each  entered  an  "instrument  of  torture," 
and  after  half  an  hour  of  agony  was  deposited  in  Happy 
Valley  graveyard. 

I  shall  never  forget  the  withering  look  "  Denis  "  cast 
upon  that  poor  Chinaman  as  he  made  a  grab  for  him,  at 
the  same  time  exclaiming,  "  Who  do  you  think  I.  am  1 
Do  you  take  me  for  a  graveyard  poet  1  Do  you  think  I 
came  from  Philadelphia  1     Oh !  I'll  annihilate  you,   you 

lecherous   almond-eyed "    here    1    had  to  interpose, 

telling  him  he  should  make  some  allowance  for  the  man's 
indefinite  knowledge  of  the  English  language,  and  that 
perhaps  he  was  only  influenced  by  kindly  and  patriotic 
motives  in  bringing  us  out  to  this  place.  After  his  pas- 
sion had  subsided  we  returned  to  town,  but  as  his  dignity 
had  been  insulted,  nothing  would  prevail  upon  him  to 
renew  the  search,  so  we  wended  our  way  shipward, 
mutually  agreeing,  that  the  more  you  know  a  Chinaman, 
the  less  you  like  him. 

Perhaps  one  exception  is  "  Bumboat  Sam."  Sam  has 
been  in  the  business  all  his  life.  In  fact,  it  became  his 
by  inheritance.  He  does  all  the  trade  among  American 
ships  and  has  become  quite  Americanized.  On  Wash- 
ington's Birthday,  Fourth  of  July  and  other  national 
holidays,  he  never  fails  to  trot  out  his  "  war  junk  "  and 
fire  a  salute.  Besides  this,  Sam  is  smart  and  has  an  eye 
to  business,  and  the  rapidity  he  will  run  over  6  and  7 
makes  14  and  5  makes  20  in  adding  up  your  bill,  would 
put  to  shame  a  graduate  of  Bryant  &  Stratton's. 

At  last  the  day  came  (April  6,)  when  we  could 
bid  good-bye  to  Hong  Kong,  her  painters,  tailors  and 
shoemakers,  and  her  \rendors  of  every  civilized,  barba- 
rian, christian  or  pagan  article  imaginable. 


52  THE    PILGRIMAGE 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


JAPAN. 

On  leaving  Hong  Kong  our  destination  was  the  Loo 
Choo  Islands,  but  adverse  weather  drove  us  on  towards 
Nagasaki,  where  we  arrived  April  11th. 

To  foreign  commerce,  Nagasaki  is  the  oldest  port  in 
Japan.  Formerly  all  communications  from  and  to  the 
capital  were  here  received  and  delivered,  until  Commo- 
dore Perry,  of  the  U.  S.  Navy,  broke  the  spell  by  an- 
choring his  fleet  off  the  capital  and  demanding  an  inter- 
view. At  first  the  "  Japs  "  were  unwilling  to  digress 
from  established  customs,  but  Perry  remained  firm.  At 
last  success  crowned  his  efforts.  Negotiations  were  com- 
menced, and  four  ports  in  Japan  were  thrown  open  to 
commerce.  Since  then  the  Japanese  have  profited  by  the 
treaty  they  were  so  unwilling  to  make,  and  will  soon  be 
able  to  demand  a  place  among  the  nations  of  the  earth. 
Her  old  war  and  trading  "junks"  have  given  way  to  a 
fleet  of  fast  steamers  and  ironclads,  and  instead  of  an  un- 
paid, undisciplined  mob,  she  can  now  boast  of  a  well  or- 
ganized army,  quite  a  respectable  national  debt,  and  a 
depreciated  currency. 

Nagasaki  is  quite  a  flourishing  town,  with  a  consider- 
able commerce,  principally  coal,  it  being  within  a  few 
miles  of  the  Takasima  mines.  Outside  of  the  foreign 
concession,  it  has  no  particular  claims  to  beauty >  as  the 
Japanese  style  of  architecture  is  not  of  an  imposing  char- 


OV    THE     TICONDEROGA.  53 

acter.  Yet  it  is  pleasantly  situated,  and  the  several 
Consulate  residences,  with  a  church  spire  raising  here 
and  there,  tend  to  relieve  the  scene. 

The  first   Sunday  after  our  arrival  the  Rev.  Mr. 

preached  on  board.  He  was  accompanied  by  several  of 
his  male  and  female  co-laborers  in  the  good  work  of  re- 
claiming the  heathen  Japanese.  The  service  opened  with 
the  "  Sweet  bye  and  bye,"  then,  after  a  fervent  prayer  for 
the  safety  and  salvation  of  all  on  board  (the  common 
sailor  excepted,  "Fiddler's  Green"  being  especially  set 
apart  as  his  future  elysium).  "  Hold  the  fort"  was  com- 
menced. This  without  rehearse  was  too  much.  The 
choir  found  themselves  unequal  to  the  occasion.  Our 
cornet-player  pointed  his  instrument  seaward  and  heaven- 
ward, and  belched  forth  discordant  strain  after  strain, 
but  to  no  avail.  Slowly  but  surely  the  strains  became 
weaker ;  failure  was  imminent.  No !  our  Rev.  friend 
girded  his  armor  about  him,  and  with  a  desperate  spurt 
went  five  notes  to  the  front,  held  his  lead  to  the  finish, 
and  saved  the  "  fort."  During  the  succeeding  services  the 
recording  angel  had  to  submit  to  the  additional  agony  of 
a  string  band,  yet  it  was  considered  an  improvement ; 
but  alas,  not  so  the  congregation.  The  savage  breast  of 
the  average  sailor  might  be  soothed  by  music,  but 
it  was  evident  that  he  would  not  "  Sankeyize."  Finally 
the  sonorous  voice  of  the  Rev.  gentleman  became  a  thing 
of  the  past. 

After  a  short  stay,  we  left  (May  3d)  for  Corea,  and 
arrived  on  the  4th  at  Fusan,  a  port  lately  opened  to  the 
Japanese.  Several  attempts  were  made  to  communicate 
with  the  Government ;  but  once  our  nationality  was  made 
known,  it  was  simply  impossible  to  make  any  headway. 
The  Governor  was  willing  to  listen,  but  would  forward  no 


54  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

letter  to  the  Emperor,  and  whether  his  ear  was  filled  with 
threats  or  "  taffy/'  it  elicited  but  one  reply,  which  was 
always  accompanied  by  the  act  of  drawing  his  hand 
across  his  throat,  first,  by  way  of  giving  his  negative  a 
little  emphasis,  and  in  the  second,  to  give  us  to  under- 
stand that  the  "  Melican  man"  was  at  a  discount  in  Corea. 

Late  on  the  evening  of  the  second  day  we  took  our 
departure,  and  the  news  flashed  over  the  wires  that  the 
"  Ticonderoga"  had  visited  Corea.  Vent,  Vidi,  not  much 
Vidf 

We  did  not  return  to  Nagasaki,  but  proceeded  to  Yo- 
kohama by  way  of  the  Inland  Sea.  The  empire  of  Japan 
is  composed  of  some  thirty-five  hundred  islands,  great  and 
small.  This  archipelago  is  known  as  the  Inland  Sea.  I 
had  heard  considerable  of  the  picturesque  beauties  that 
would  be  presented  on  this  passage,  and  as  we  wended 
our  way  through  innumerable  islands  many  were  the  ad- 
mirers of  the  scenery.  Everywhere  there  was  evidence 
of  industry.  No  piece  of  ground  that  was  capable  of 
cultivation  but  was  made  to  yield.  Other  places  present- 
ed excellent  sites  for  farms — only  requiring  the  intro- 
duction of  a  little  soil.  What  interested  me  most  was  the 
enthusiasm  a  bleak  barren  rock,  or  a  few  hovels  here  and 
there  could  create.  Once  I  thought  I  would  be  in  fashion. 
We  were  passing  one  of  those  wild  "  romantic"  scenes — a 
rocky  island,  without  sufficient  vegetation  to  support  a 
goat,  and  with  about  as  much  romance  about  it  as  a 
telegraph-pole  or  a  cord-wood  pile.  For  a  victim  upon 
whom  I  could  shower  all  the  little  choice  and  appropriate 
phrases  I  had  been  able  to  borrow,  I  chose  an  ancient 
mariner  who  was  leaning  over  the  rail,  watching  the 
descent  of  the  mouthful  after  mouthful  of  tobacco  juice 
he  ejected.     Upon  him  I  hurled  those  little  phrases,  be- 


OF     THE    TICONDEROGA.  55 

sides  expending  a  private  little  store  of  adjectives,  and 
watched  the  effect.  After  a  time  he  got  up,  and  with  a 
"  Say,  let  go  my  ear  J"  walked  off.  I  was  satisfied  that 
that  man  wouldn't  "  enthuse,"  but  I  would  not  give  up. 
I  encountered  another,  and  made  him  submit  to  the 
same  ordeal.  He  took  me  to  one  side  and  advised  me  to 
see  the  doctor,  that  I  "  had  it  bad."  I  gave  up.  I  was 
satisfied  I  was  a  failure. 

On  the  11th  of  May  we  arrived  at  Yokohama,  where, 
to  our  surprise,  we  found  an  American  steamer,  the 
"  City  of  Tokio,"  one  of  the  Pacific  Mail  line,  to  us  quite 
a  curiosity,  she  being  the  first  we  had  seen  since  leaving 
home.  In  fact,  we  had  begun  to  doubt  whether  such 
things  as  American  steamers  had  a  real  or  only  an 
imaginary  existence  ;  but  wonders  were  not  to  rest  here. 
In  a  few  days  the  U.  S.  S.  "  Alert"  made  her  appearance. 
We  had  now  traveled  over  a  distance  of  30,000  miles, 
and  this  was  the  only  representative  of  our  most  beauti- 
ful navy  we  had  yet  met. 

Yokohama,  I  believe,  is  the  principal  commercial  port 
of  Japan.  In  the  European  concession  it  has  a  substan- 
tial appearance,  but  outside  of  that  it  differs  little  from 
other  Japan  towns.  A  railroad  connects  it  with 
Tokio,  the  capital.  This  latter  city  is  most  curiously 
laid  out,  it  being  intersected  by  several  deep  moats.  For- 
merly .the  different  princes  of  the  realm  were  compelled 
to  reside  at  Tokio  a  certain  period  of  the  year.  When 
paying  the  capital  a  visit,  it  was  customary  to  bring  with 
them  numerous  followers.  They  occupied  separate  sec- 
tions of  the  eity,  and  were  entrenehed  about  by  a  deep 
moat,  and  as  their  followers  would  generally  number 
several    thousands,  these   sections  were   of   considerable 


56  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

size,  and  Tokio  became,  as  it  is  called,  a  city  composed  of 
cities. 

With  the  exception  of  the  Government  buildings,  which 
are  on  the  European  plan  and  of  an  extensive  character, 
that  eternal  Japanese  style  everywhere  meets  the  eye. 
Before  evening  I  found  myself  sufficiently  surfeited  with 
moats,  walls,  tea  gardens,  and  Josh  houses,  to  be  glad  to 
return. 

After  laying  nearly  a  month  in  Yokohama,  we  left 
(May  31st)  for  Kobe,  where  we  arrived  June  3d.  On 
arriving  at  Kobe  (formerly  called  Hiogo)  I  heard  con- 
siderable of  its  great  waterfall.  Nothing  would  do  but  I 
should  pay  a  visit ;  so  after  submitting  for  two  hours  to  a 
broiling  sun,  and  climbing  up  a  road  that  was  calculated 
to  erase  every  Christian  precept  from  the  heart  of  man, 
we  arrived  at  the  top  of  the  hill,  where  we  could  look 
upon  the  "  waters  rushing  madly  down."  I  think  that  is 
the  way  a  friend  of  mine  has  got  it  down,  and  he  is  one 
that  can  "  enthuse"  whenever  he  likes.  Now,  I  don't 
like  walking,  especially  along  a  bad  road,  up  hill,  and  in 
a  hot  sun ;  but  then,  if  Kobe  could  trot  out  anything  to 
eclipse  Niagara,  I  was  willing  to  suffer  a  little  incon- 
venience to  see  it.  Nevei  was  man  doomed  to  suffer 
greater  disappointment.  There  lay  the  falls  before  us.  A 
Yankee  fire  engine  could  throw  water  all  around  it — 
throw  it  on  the  hands  of  a  Chinese  laundryman  and  it 
would  bankrupt  him.  It  was  a  fraud — an  imposture. 
When  Japan  can  put  a  more  respectable  article  in  the 
market,  I'll  take  it  in ;  until  then  I'll  take  mine  without 
water. 

Here  we  only  remained  a  few  days,  leaving  on  the  8th 
and  arriving  on  the  11th  at  Nagasaki. 


OF     THE     T1CONDEROGA.  57 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


NAGASAKI. 

July  4th  found  us  the  only  representative  of  the 
nation,  but  we  succeeded  in  playing  a  good  lone  hand. 
The  fourth  falling  upon  Sunday,  the  display  was  postponed 
until  the  fifth.  At  sunrise  the  ship  was  dressed  from 
stem  to  stern  with  bunting,  the  foreign  men-of-war  also 
dressing.  At  noon  a  salute  of  twenty-one  guns  was 
fired.  At  sundown  the  flags  were  replaced  by  Chinese 
lanterns.  Fore  and  aft,  along  each  yard-arm,  at  the  rail 
and  water  line,  the  ship  was  gaily  illuminated.  A 
procession  of  thirteen  sampans,  typical  of  the  thirteen 
original  States,  was  formed,  which,  also  decorated  with 
lanterns,  discharged  salvos  of  fireworks  as  they  made  a 
circuit  of  the  harbor.  It  was  acknowledged  to  be  the 
greatest  display  ever  witnessed  in  Nagasaki,  if  not  in 
Japan. 

The  next  event  of  interest  was  the  appearance  of  the 
"  Swatara,"  fresh  from  the  States.  It  being  reported  that 
she  had  a  fast  boat,  the  "  boys  "  determined  to  bring  her 
out.  One  of  our  cutters,  which  was  supposed  to  possess 
some  imaginary  racing  qualities,  was  chosen  to  be  the 
"Conquering  Hero."  The  "Swatara"  at  first  did  not 
seem  anxious,  but  at  last  consented,  and  July  20th  was 
set  down  as  the  date  of  the  "  aquatic  battle,"  course  two 
miles  straight  away.  Our  boat  was  painted  white,  while 
that  of  the  "  Swatara  "   was   black  ;  as  these  were  more 


58  VMM    TILGRIMAGE 

easy  than  the  ships'  names  the  boats  were  known  as  the 
"  black  "  and  "  white."  As  the  time  drew  nearer  excite- 
ment grew  proportionately  greater.  On  board,  the 
"white"  was  the  favorite,  more,  perhaps,  through 
sympathy  than  judgment,  yet  the  adherents  of  the 
respective  colors  were  willing  to  back  their  opinions,  and 
betting  became  interesting,  At  6  p.  m.  the  boats  were 
placed  in  line.  At  the  word  "go"  they  got  well  off 
together,  with  a  little  in  favor  of  the  "  white,"  but  before 
many  strokes  the  "  black  "  got  down  to  fine  work,  and 
soon  had  things  her  own  way,  crossing  the  line  winner 
by  over  a  minute.  Since  then  the  sound  of  "  white 
boat  "  no  longer  grates  upon  the  ear.  Let  us  hope  for 
those  who  went  their  u  pile  "  on  the  "  white  "  that  what 
they  lost  in  riches  they  may  have  gained  in  wisdom. 

"While  here  two  base  ball  clubs  were  organized,  one 
composed  wholly  of  men  from  deck,  who  were  styled  the 
"  Ticons,"  while  the  other,  principally  made  up  of  men 
from  the  fire-room,  wielded  the  willow  under  the  title  of 
the  "  Novelty  Works."  Several  bitter  and  determined 
contests  took  place  for  the  mastership  of  the  diamond, 
but  without  any  decided  results,  dame  Fortune  dividing 
her  smiles  about  equally  upon  the  respective  banners, 
yet  good  feeling  always  prevailed,  the  rivalry  was  never 
carried  off  the  field,  and,  like  the  ancient  Greeks,  both 
clubs  were  always  willing  to  combine  on  the  approach  of 
a  common  enemy. 

With  the  Japanese  base  ball  will  probably  be  some 
time  before  it  numbers  among  their  popular  games.  It 
requires  too  much  exertion  for  the  average  native  taste, 
yet  whenever  a  game  was  played  it  brought  out  a 
number  of  spectators.  In  justice  be  it  said,  that  as  an 
audience  the  Japs  are  a  success,  in  fact  the  greater  part 


OF     THE     TICONDEROGA.  59 

of  the  native  talent  seems  directed  toward  the  cultivation 
of  the  art  of  sitting  down, 

During  our  stay  the  "  Richmond," **  Swatara,"  "  Palos" 
and  "  Ashuelot "  visited  the  port,  besides  the  Russian 
fleet,  several  English,  French,  German  and  a  Brazilian 
man-of-war. 

At  last  came  the  stern  mandate,  "  move  on,"  our  cruise 
was  not  of  pleasure  j  we  had  still  more  work  before  us ; 
we  had  to  delve  further  into  the  unexplored  regions  of 
commerce.  So  farewell,  Nagasaki.  No  more  will  thy 
junrikisha  men  whirl  us  through  thy  odoriferous  streets ; 
no  more  will  thy  oderiferous  sampan  man  scull  us  over 
the  placid  waters  of  thy  bay. 

A  pleasant  run  of  five  days  brought  us  to  Chefoo, 
China.  Our  stay  here  was  but  short,  leaving  on  the  29th 
of  August  and  again  arriving  at  Nagasaki  on  the  2d  of 
September,  where,  after  replenishing  bunkers,  we  left  for 
Kobe  on  the  4th, 


60  THE    PILGRIMAGE 


CHAPTER  XV. 


THE     JAPS. 

Our  long  stay  at  Nagasaki  and  visits  to  other  ports  of 
the  empire  gave  an  opportunity  of  becoming  to  some 
extent  acquainted  with  the  Japs. 

In  dress,  each  class  has  a  separate  costume,  that  of  the* 
poorer  consisting  of  loin-cloth,  over  which  is  worn  a  loose 
gown  tied  around  the  middle.  This  increases  in  quantity 
and  quality  as  you  ascend  the  social  scale.  The  hair 
which  is  allowed  to  grow  long  is  tied  at  the  back,  the 
"  queue  "  being  brought  over  the  top  to  the  forehead,  the 
part  upon  which  it  rests  being  shave,  but  now  it  is  not 
uncommon  to  see  the  gown  giving  place  to  a  "  Chester- 
field" and  the  queue  to  a  short  crop  and  plug  hat,  "  all 
same  as  melican  man."  Shoes  are  rarely  worn,  necessity 
rather  than  antipathy  to  shoes  compel  them  to  adhere  to 
the  sandal,  they  being  more  easily  removed  from  the  feet, 
an  act  never  neglected  by  the  Jap  upon  entering  a  dwell- 
ing. Women  all  dress  alike,  the  quality  of  her  garment 
denotes  her  status.  They,  unlike  the  men,  seem  to  have 
rigidly  set  their  faces  against  all  foreign  innovations,  for 
I  have  never  seen  one  of  them  attempt  to  emulate  the 
costume  of  her  European  sisters. 

A  striking  feature  of  a  Japanese  town  is  the  absence  of 
noise  and  confusion.  This  is  to  some  extent  due  to  the 
absence  of  carriages.  You  scarcely  ever  see  a  Jap  loung- 
ing along  the  street,  he  generally  moves  as  if  he  intended 


OF     THE     TICONDEROGA.  61 

to  go  somewhere,  and  he  does  it  quietly  so  that  in  a 
crowded  thoroughfare  about  the  only  noise  you  hear  is 
the  clatter  of  sandals.  At  all  times  a  Jap  is  polite,  in 
fact  with  him  politeness  is  almost  a  failing.  Their  rapid 
motion  through  the  streets  and  low  bow  to  one  another 
at  passing,  would  at  a  distance  convey  the  idea  to  a 
stranger  that  the  whole  town  was  playing  "  leap  frog." 

In  strolling  through  a  town  you  are  rarely  importuned 
by  venders  soliciting  you  to  purchase  their  goods,  and  if 
it  should  be  necessary  to  ask  a  question,  an  answer  will 
always  be  tendered  with  every  politeness.  With  so 
large  a  population  to  feed,  every  inch  of  soil  is  compelled 
to  yield,  so  that  industry  is  a  necessity.  There  is  nothing 
progressive  about  a  Japanese  farmer,  his  ideas  are  like 
his  implements,  primitive,  and  judging  from  workmen 
that  I  have  seen  about  cities,  I  know  few  who  can 
work  longer  and  accomplish  less. 

Among  the  amusements  of  Japan  of  which  there  are 
quite  a  number,  the  theatre  is  perhaps  the  place  of  great- 
est attraction,  and  is  generally  well  attended.  I  had  the 
pleasure  of  visiting  one  at  Nagasaki.  The  piece  on  the 
board  was  a  love  story  in  which  the  hero  who  was  about 
to  start  off  to  the  war,  was  represented  pouring  tales  of 
love  and  constancy  into  the  ear  of  his  adored  one,  in  tones 
that  would  make  the  most  credulous  audience  believe  his 
agony  to  be  real,  that  his  disease  partook  more  of  colic 
than  love.  A  host  of  actors  were  introduced  indiscrimi- 
nately, and  their  howling  was  something  terriflic,  while  the 
band,  which  also  occupied  a  place  on  the  stage,  did  noble 
work  in  adding  to  the  general  confusion. 

In  religion  the  Japs  are  Shintos  and  Bhuddists,  some 
have  adopted  Christianity,  but  they  are  in  a  fearful 
minority.     The  deities  of  the  Shintos  are,  with  one   ex- 


62  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

ception,  historical  personages  who  have  been  deified. 
They  number  13,730,  and  of  these  3,700  are  known  to 
have  shrines  erected  to  them  at  which  the  devout  offer 
up  their  petitions.  The  Bhuddists,  of  which  there  are 
numerous  sects,  have  also  many  objects  of  adoration. 
Some  sects  devote  themselves  to  some  more  than  others, 
and  temples  of  the  same  sect  may  have  special  favorite 
idols,  which  may  be  seen  well  worn  by  devotees  rubbing 
the  figure  and  then  the  corresponding  parts  of  their  own 
bodies.  The  founders  of  sects  are  also  represented  by 
idols  and  adored  principally  by  the  sects  they  founded. 
In  these  figures  the  same  deity  may  be  represented  in 
several  attitudes  and  at  various  ages.  As  each  posture 
has  a  separate  signification  the  idols  are  numerous. 

When  a  Bhuddist  is  about  to  u  shake  off  this  mortal 
coil,"  he  makes  every  preparation  for  the  event  by  fre- 
quent visits  to  his  favorite  shrine;  besides,  the  services  of 
a  priest  are  called  into  requisition  that  his  road  to  para- 
dise may  be  thoroughly  paved.  When  he  has  departed, 
the  corpse  is  placed  with  the  head  toward  the  North.  At 
he  head  a  new  writing  desk,  rice  cakes  and  josh  stickst 
are  placed,  while  the  tray,  cups,  chopsticks,  etc.,  used  by 
the  deceased,  are  placed  at  the  side  of  the  corpse.  Thus 
he  remains  forty-eight  hours,  when  he  is  prepared  for  the 
coffin  or  tub,  by  being  first  washed,  and  then,  unless  he 
has  otherwise  wished,  his  head  is  shaved,  after  which  he 
is  placed  in  the  coffin  in  a  sitting  position.  These  coffins 
or  tubs  are  made  either  of  wood  or  earthenware  and  vary 
from  a  pickle  jar  to  a  mackerel  keg,  so  that  each  can  get 
a  "  send-off  "  according  to  his  means.  The  corpse  is  first 
conveyed  with  great  pomp  to  the  temple  where  a  certain 
amount  of^prayer  is  recited;  thence  to  the  graveyard, 
where,  while  being  planted,  it  receives  another  edition  of 


OF     THE     TICONDEROGA.  63 

prayer.  All  these  little  preparations  before  and  after 
death  do  not  insure  the  celestial  felicity  of  the  departed) 
the  relations  have  to  go  into  deep  mourning,  abstain  from 
certain  diets,  recite  the  necessary  and  proscribed  prayers, 
besides  paying  fifty  daily  visits  to  the  grave. 

In  Bhuddism  there  are  ten  states  of  future  existence, 
five  of  good  and  five  of  evil.  Of  the  five  good,  from  life 
on  earth  to  that  of  absolute  nihilification,  the  prayers  of 
the  living  are  not  required;  but  if  the  deceased  was  not  a 
devout  liver,  his  soul  then  goes  to  purgatory  where  the 
devil  takes  his  papers  and  passes  judgment  in  accordance* 

The  friends  of  the  departed  are  not  aware  of  this  sen- 
tence, so  they  must  draw  their  own  conclusions  as  to 
about  where  he  is  located  and  his  condition.  These  can 
only  be  improved  through  the  medium  of  dearly  bought 
prayers.  If  the  departed  has  been  a  most  hardened 
wretch,  so  as  to  have  become  too  bad  even  for  hell,  he  is 
punished  by  being  transformed  into  a  beast  and  sent  on 
earth  to  suffer.  Qhildren's  spirits  are  said  to  go  to  the 
"  pebble  plain,"  where  upon  certain  conditions  they  can 
enter  an  unborn  child  and  have  another  chance.  The 
unmarried,  should  they  escape  perdition,  can  only  hope 
to  join  the  children,  as  their  neglected  duties  on  earth 
precludes  them  from  paradise.  But  whatever  may  be 
the  condition  of  the  departed,  it  can  always  be  improved 
and  eventually  reach  paradise  through  the  medium  of 
money  and  prayer.  In  the  Shinto  prayer,  there  is 
nothing  indicative  of  a  belief  in  a  future  existence,  or  of 
the  possession  of  a  soul  by  the  petitioner,  so  that  when 
one  is  dying,  no  prayers  are  said  by  himself  or  friends. 
In  arranging  the  corpse,  the  "  lay  out "  is  similar  to  that 
of  the  Bhuddists.  Twenty-four  hours  after  death,  he  is 
placed  in  a  long  coffin  in  a  reclining  position,  when  he  is 


64  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

conveyed  to  the  grave  where  a  burial  service  is  recited. 
A  post  is  erected  over  the  centre  of  the  grave,  on  which 
is  recorded  the  date  of  death,  age,  name  and  virtues  of 
the  departed.  After  one  hundred  days  have  elapsed, 
this  wooden  post  is  replaced  by  a  pillar  of  stone. 

Until  within  the  last  few  years,  the  priests  drew  large 
revenues  from  the  government,  but  now  they  are  thrown 
upon  their  own  resources.  By  this  the  treasury  gains 
and  the  priests  do  not  suffer,  for  when  their  government 
allowance  was  cut  off  they  had  nothing  to  do  but  raise 
the  "fare"  over  the  different  celestial  routes  of  which 
they  were  the   agents. 

The  people  are  very  superstitious.  The  most  intelli- 
gent Jap  is  capable  of  swallowing  the  hardest  kind  of  a 
ghost  story,  while  evil  omens,  witchcraft,  charms  and 
fortune  telling  are  considered  Simeon  pure  gospel. 

Besides  the  fear  of  damnation,  a  Jap  has  another 
strong  reason  why  he  should  walk  in  the  ways  of  the 
righteous,  in  that  of  the  law  of  the  land^  for  it  may  be 
said,  that  if  a  crime  is  committed  in  Japan,  some  one  has 
to  suffer.  In  a  Japanese  court,  the  principal  dignitaries 
are  the  magistrate,  constable  and  torturer.  The  prisoner 
is  brought  into  court  securely  bound,  when  the  magistrate 
proceeds  to  question  him.  Should  he  be  any  way  dila- 
tory about  answering  these  questions,  or  refuse  to  answer 
such  as  might  tend  to  criminate  himself,  the  torturer, 
armed  with  a  heavy  whip,  steps  up  and  administers  a 
gentle  reminder,  that  the  majesty  of  the  law  must  be 
respected,  that  the  court  will  stand  no  fooling.  The 
examination  is  only  preliminary,  and  should  it  fail  to 
elicit  any  eviddnce  of  guilt,  the  accused  is  taken  to 
prison  where  a  further  examination  is  conducted,  when 
he  is  informed  that  in  order  that  the  ends  of  justice  may 


OF     THE     TICONDEROGA.  65 

be  attained,  torture  will  be  resorted  to,  of  which 
there  are  several  modes,  among  which  are  the  "  oil  tor- 
ture," in  which  the  prisoner  gets  a  clean  wash  in  boiling 
oil ;  next,  the  "  fire  torture,"  in  which  the  prisoner  is 
suspended  by  the  heels  in  a  bamboo  cage  which  is  made 
to  revolve  in  a  circle  over  charcoal  fires.  Another  is  the 
"ladder  torture. "  The  accused,  bound  to  a  horizontal  ladder, 
is  made  to  drink  large  quantities  of  water.  When  he  is 
incapable  of  holding  any  more,  the  water  is  drove  towards 
the  head  by  means  of  a  heavy  stick  and  forced  out  of  the 
ears,  eyes  and  nostrils.  Boiling  water  is  another.  Here 
the  prisoner  is  bound  to  a  frame  with  his  back  exposed, 
into  which  incissions  are  cut  and  washed  out  with  boiling 
water.  Should  the  prisoner  remain  obdurate  and  still 
refuse  to  confess,  and  there  be  any  accomplices,  to  strike 
fear  into  them,  the  water  is  exchanged  for  molten  lead, 
and  the  terrible  example  is  made  of  the  gentleman  under 
judicial  treatment.  Another  model  mode  of  arriving  at  truth 
is  a  copper  kettle  with  a  hole  in  the  top  sufficiently  large 
to  allow  the  head  to  protrude.  Into  this  the  victim  is 
placed,  spirits  are  added,  and  venomous  snakes  introduced, 
after  which  fire  is  added,  which  soon  makes  it  too  hot 
for  the  snakes,  and  they  in  turn  make  it  too  hot  for  their 
companion.  This  test  is  generally  applied  to  women. 
In  all  these  tortures  the  only  chances  of  escape  are  upon 
the  conditions  of  a  confession,  after  which  the  prisoner  is 
taken  to  receive  sentence. 

Bad  as  these  tortures  were,  the  punishments  fol- 
lowing them,  especially  in  capital  cases,  were  marked 
with  equal  cruelty.  One  mode  of  execution  was  that  of 
"  crucifixion."  The  prisoner  was  suspended  from  a  rude 
cross,  after  which  two  spears  were  driven  through  the 
body  from  the  lower  part  of  the  abdomen  until  they  pro- 


66  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

traded  at  the  shoulder,  one  on  the  right  side  and  one  on 
the  left.  Much  care  was  taken  not  to  touch  the  vitals. 
In  this  position  other  tortures  were  added  until  death 
released  their  victim.  "When  it  was  particularly  desirous 
to  inflict  a  torturous  death,  burning  at  the  stake  was 
resorted  to,  and  any  one  guilty  of  parricide  was  bound  to 
a  stake  and  exposed  in  the  street  for  such  a  time  as  the 
sentence  might  state,  after  which  his  head  was  hacked  off 
with  a  bamboo  saw.  Now,  the  only  capital  punishments 
in  Japan  are  decapitation,  to  which  may  be  added  expos- 
ure of  the  head  and  hanging,  the  latter  being  considered 
the  least  ignominious. 

Any  offence  committed  by  foreigners  are  tried  before 
a  consular  court.  This  clause  in  the  treaty  the  Japanese 
are  laboring  to  have  removed  so  as  to  make  all  residents 
amenable  to  the  laws  of  the  country.  Though  these  old 
tortures  are  now  officially  discountenanced,  foreigners 
have  not  sufficient  faith  in  her  amended  laws  to  be  will- 
ing to  come  under  their  yoke. 


OF    THE    TICONDEROGA.  "7 


CHAPTER  XYI. 


ACROSS    THE    PACIFIC. 

As  we  were  to  bid  farewell  to  the  Eastern  world  from 
Kobe,  every  preparation  was  made  for  a  long  passage. 
Besides  an  abundance  of  fresh  provisions,  in  addition  to 
our  full  bunkers,  a  deck  load  of  coal  was  taken  on 
board. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  11th  resounded  through 
the  ship  the  welcome  sound  of  "  all  hands  up  anchor  for 
home."  Soon  we  were  on  our  way,  blessed  with  pleasant 
weather,  our  customary  head  wind,  and  a  long  and 
monotonous  passage  before  us. 

To  some  this  might  not  appear  such  a  dreadful  fate, 
their  impression  of  a  sailor  being  that  the  shore  has  no 
attraction  for  him,  that  the  very  acme  of  his  happiness 
is  to  be  out  upon  the  sea,  in  terrific  gales,  driven  about 
at  the  mercy  of  the  waves,  etc.;  that  he  is  a  kind  of 
amphibious  animal,  capable  of  existing  for  a  limited  time 
on  land,  but  that  the  water  is  his  true  element ;  that  to'^be 
rocked  to  sleep  on  the  bosom  of  the  deep  with  a  wet  swab 
under  his  ear,  is  a  comfort  unknown  to  those  who  are 
forced  to  lay  on  beds  of  down,  while  to  him  theatres, 
operas,  etc.,  are  dry  and  insipid  amusements  when 
compared  with  the  luxury  of  wallowing  in  a  lee  scupper 
knee  deep  in  salt  water,  when,  in  fact,  there  are  no  class 
of  men  who  can  more  thoroughly  appreciate  the  comforts 
afforded  by  terra  Jirma  than  the  sailor.     His  principal 


68  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

misfortune  is  that  he  generally  appreciates  them  too 
much.  As  for  gales  and  "  heavy  weather,"  from  them  he 
is  always  willing  to  be  excused,  for  he  knows  exactly 
what  one  means,  and  has  no  desire  to  become  further 
acquainted  with  their  attending  discomforts,  labors  and 
dangers. 

There  are  many  good  people  who,  having  the  interests 
and  welfare  of  the  sailor  at  heart,  try  to  make  the  shore 
attractive  for  him,  but  when  he  arrives  they  surround 
him  with  such  a  halo  of  romance  that  they  fail  to  discover 
his  real  character,  and  in  their  attempts  to  do  good  either 
hasten  him  off  to  sea  or  drive  him  somewhere  worse. 
They  then  accuse  "Jack"  of  being  ungrateful,  while  he 
consoles  himself  with  the  idea  that  his  would-be  bene- 
factors are  either  "  land  sharks  "  or  fools.  If  these  good 
Samaritans  would  only  banish  from .  their  minds  the 
ancient  mariner  of  the  picture  book  and  remember  that 
they  are  dealing  with  the  unromantic  but  practical  seaman 
of  the  nineteenth  century,  then  posibly  their  labors  may 
be  crowned  with  a  deserving  success. 

On  this  occasion  I  know  of  none  who  were  not  anxious 
for  our  arrival,  and  day  by  day  that  anxiety  became 
greater.  To  while  away  our  leisure  hours,  the  base  ball 
match  which  was  played  the  day  before  our  departure 
between  a  nine  composed  of  officers  and  men  of  the 
"  Pal os  "  and  "  Ticonderoga"  and  a  Kobe  club,  in  which 
they  were  taught  that  the  sailors  of  "  Uncle  Sam,"  if 
invincible  on  the  sea,  were  no  less  an  enemy  on  the 
"  diamond."  If  in  this  match  the  Kobeites  imagined 
they  had  a  "  soft  thing,"  or  that  the  "  sea  legs  "  of  the 
naval  invincibles  would  in  any  way  impede  their  progress 
between  bases  they  were  doomed  to  be  disappointed,  for 
the  score  showed  that  "  Uncle   Sammy's  "  returns  had 


OF     THE     TICONDEROGA.  69 

"  heeled  the  plate  "  to  the  tune  of  29  to  6.  This  game 
was  not  only  food  for  the  garrulous,  but  gave  the  "  knights 
of  the  willow"  an  opportunity  of  introducing  and  com- 
menting upon  the  technicalities  of  the  game. 

Our  arrival  at  the  180th  parallel  of  longitude,  and  all 
the  why's  and  wherefore's  of  having  two  Tuesdays  in  one 
week,  beside  the  one  hundred  and  one  side  issues  it  gave 
rise  to,  were  ground  up  beyond  resuscitation;  then 
exploits  in  strange  lands  and  among  stranger  people  were 
hashed  and  rehashed.  When  on  the  evening  of  the 
thirty-third  day  out  a  venerable  mariner  (who,  as  I  don't 
want  to  give  him  away,  I  will  style  Jerry)  was  relating 
a  thrilling  and  continued  story  of  his  hairbreadth  escapes 
and  experiences  among  ship-wrecks  and  savages,  not  a 
word  of  which  anyone  believed,  except  it  was  himself, 
for  one  yarn  in  particular  that  he  never  tires  in  relating 
is,  "  how  he  got  his  pension  papers  out  for  sea  service  in 
the  ark  ;"  this,  as  others  he  has  related  so  often,  that  he 
has  finally  brought  himself  to  believe  that  he  has  been 
shipmates  with  the  ancient  navigator,  Captain  Noah. 
Just  as  we  were  beginning  to  get  interested  in  the  tale, 
the  man  at  the  mast-head  broke  in  very  abruptly  with 
the  cry  of  "  Land,  ho."  This  was  a  signal  for  a  general 
rush,  so  "  Jerry's  yarn"  was  indefinitely  postponed. 

On  the  following  morning  the  Island  of  Woahoo  was 
in  sight,  and  by  noon  we  were  safely  at  anchor  in  the 
harbor  of  Honolulu. 


70  THE    PILGRIMAGE 


CHAPTER   XVII. 


HONOLULU. 

The  Hawaiian  Kingdom,  of  which  Honolulu  is  the 
capital,  is  ruled  by  a  king  (native),  a  cabinet  (forefgn), 
and  a  house  of  representatives  (mixed) ;  but  I  am  not 
going  to  enter  into  a  description  of  the  country,  its  gov- 
ernment, people,  or  its  resources.  My  mission  here  is 
one  of  pleasure.  I  have  forty-eight  hour's  leave,  and  I 
intend  to  make  the  most  of  it. 

On  first  landing  in  Honolulu,  one  is  likely  to  be  favor- 
ably impressed  with  the  place ;  but  should  the  day  be 
Sunday,  and  the  visitor  not  a  believer  in  the  doctrines  of 
"  Father  Matthew,"  or  "  John  B.  Gough,"  those  impres- 
sions soon  "  grow  beautifully  less."  In  company  with  a 
couple  of  the  boys,  it  was  my  fate  to  visit  Honolulu  upon 
that  day.  We  amused  ourselves  the  greater  part  of  a 
forenoon  wandering  about  the  streets  in  a  boiling  sun, 
encountering  clouds  of  dust  at  every  corner,  a  consider- 
able portion  of  which  we  succeeded  in  inhaling  upon  our 
lungs ;  but  for  that  we  did  not  care ;  we  started  to  see 
the  town  and  were  going  to  see  it,  even  if  we  had  to 
swallow  a  little  loose  dust.  Occasionally  we  would  accost 
a  native  with  such  questions  as,  What  building  is  this  1 
or  that  1  or  that  1  and  receive,  in  reply,  "  Oh,  that's  a 
school ;  it  belongs  to  the  Missionaries."  "  That  other  is 
a  church  ;  that's  Missionary,  too  ;"  "  and  that  large  build- 
ing, that's  the  palace ;  the  Missionaries  allow  the  king  to 


OF     THE     T1CONDEROGA.  71 

live  there."  Here,  one  of  the  boys  interposed  with  a — 
"  Say,  boss,  we  are  much  obliged  for  all  this  information, 
only  it  is  a  little  too  much  Missionary.  Now,  if  you 
want  to  do  a  real  favor,  and  put  us  under  a  debt  of 
eternal  gratitude,  or  if  you  want  us  to  pray  night  and 
morning  for  your  moral,  physical,  and  spiritual  welfare, 
just  direct  us  where  we  can  procure  a  drink."  "  Gentle- 
men, I  can  assure  you  that  a  drink  to-day  is  out  of  the 
question ;  the  Missionaries  do  not  allow  it  to  be  sold." 
This  last  assertion  we  pronounced  as  "taffy,"  and  deter- 
mined to  prosecute  an  independent  search.  We  could 
*gaze  upon  sign  after  sign  that  denoted  where  the  "  neces- 
sary "  could  be  procured  during  the  six  days,  but  that 
seventh  day  elasticity  of  conscience,  so  peculiar  to  the 
American  "  dispenser  of  the  ardent,"  was  nowhere  fco  be 
found.  Earnestly  we  searched  for  "  Family  Entrance/' 
those  words  which  are  such  balm  to  the  troubled  soul  of 
"  he  that  thirsteth  after  the  spirits,"  but  in  vain.  Our 
fate  seemed  hard,  yet  we  could  not  blame  those  good  men. 
They  were  laboring  in  a  noble  cause,  and  for  their  success 
we  prayed — yes,  prayed  as  only  men  with  a  portion  of 
an  extinct  volcano  upon  their  lungs  can  pray. 

After  partaking  of  a  good  dinner,  we  concluded  to 
spend  the  afternoon  riding  in  the  country.  As  the  Mis  • 
sionaries  had  not  put  the  "  taboo "  on  horseflesh,  no 
trouble  was  experienced  in  procuring  it.     The  owner  of 

an  establishment  placed  before  me  one  of  his  specimens . 

one  that  he  would  guarantee  as  of  the  most  safe  and 
amiable  disposition.  I  informed  him  that  I  had  no  doubt 
as  to  the  great  value  of  the  horse,  but  to  me,  on  this 
occasion,  he  would  be  altogether  useless,  as  I  was  merely 
ashore  for  recreation,  and  had  no  desire  at  present  to 
enter  into  the  study  of  equine  anatomy,     He  excused 


72  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

himself  on  the  grounds  that  his  choice  had  been  governed 
by  the  impression  that  I  was  a  Missionary.  I  gave  him 
to  understand  that  he  was  mistaken ;  that  in  fact  I  was 
anti-Missionary,  and  was  at  present  engaged  in  preparing 
an  explosive  before  which  nitro-glycerine  and  giant  pow- 
der would  fade  into  insignificance,  and  when  completed 
I  was  going  to  call  a  grand  convocation  of  Missionaries 
upon  some  remote  island,  and  test  its  power.  As  I 
opened  out  this  dire  plot,  I  imagine  he  looked  upon  me 
as  the  great  benefactor  of  the  human  race ;  for  with  a 
"Hi  yah!  ana  sokar  wipero  ken"  (i,  e.,  then  Kanaka 
man  will  drink  plenty  whisky),  he  dashed  into  the  stable 
and  in  a  few  minutes  he  trotted  out  the  noblest  animal 
of  which  his  place  could  boast.  As  this  latest  arrival 
suited  my  taste  exactly,  I  endeavored  to  mount,  but  this 
I  found  to  be  no  easy  matter.  The  horse  was  perfectly 
docile  :  the  great  peculiarity  in  him  was  that  just  as  I 
was  about  to  place  my  hand  upon  him,  he  would  remem- 
ber that  his  ear  wanted  scratching,  and  by  the  time  I  was 
again  ready  to  make  an  attempt,  a  fly  on  his  tail  would 
attract  his  attention.  At  last  I  succeeded  in  reaching  the 
saddle,  but  no  sooner  had  I  gained  the  coveted  place  than 
I  was  overcome  with  a  sudden  desire  to  sit  upon  the 
grass  and  contemplate  the  increasing  momentum  of  fall- 
ing bodies,  attraction  of  gravitation,  and  the  probable 
cohesive  properties  of  the  human  frame.  In  a  few  min- 
utes I  concluded  to  continue  the  ride,  which,  along  such 
excellent  roads,  would  have  been  quite  enjoyable,  had  not 
this  most  noble  of  quadrupeds  taken  such  a  determined 
resolve  to  economize  labor  by  only  using  two  of  his  legs 
at  a  time.  As  his  efforts  only  tended  to  throw  me  more 
and  more  into  the  contemplative  mood,  I  concluded  to 


OF     TIIK     TICONDEROGA.  7'.\ 

turn  my  charge  over  to  3 1  is  rightful  owner,  as  these  con- 
tinued dismount  ings  were  becoming  monotonous. 

Before  leaving,  a  baseball  match  Avas  played  between 
the  "Honolulu"  and  " Ticonderoga  "  nines.  A  majority 
of  the  boys  had  only  returned  from  forty-eight  hours 
liberty,  and  through  a  little  over-indulgence  in  walking 
and  horse-riding,  were  pretty  well  "broken  up."  At  the 
start  they  went  to  the  front  ;  but  as  they  were  out  of 
order,  and  the  "  Honolulus  "  a  little  M  fresh,"  they  were 
soon  compelled  to  take  a  place  in  the  rear.  As  it  was 
late  when  the  game  commenced,  time  was  only  afforded 
to  play  six  innings,  so  that  by  the  time  the  "  Ticons  " 
had  their  stiffness  worked  off  and  were  commencing  to 
cut  down  the  big  lead  of  their  opponents,  darkness 
-closed  upon  them,  and  they  had,  for  the  first  time,  to  taste 
the  bitterness  of  defeat,  with  a  score  of  8  to  18. 

The  first  matter  of  interest,  after  our  arrival,  was  the 
receipt  of  the  mail.  This,  after  it  is  received,  is  first 
assorted,  and  that  portion  of  it  addressed  to  the  crew  is 
handed  over  to  the  master-at-arms  (or  as  he  is  more  com- 
monly called,  "Jimmy  Legs ''),  for  distribution.  Noth- 
ing creates  a  greater  sensation  than  its  arrival,  and  the 
cry  of  "  Mail  ho,"  is  potent  to  destroy  all  interest  in 
other  matters,  whether  terrestrial  or  celestial. 

"Jimmy  Legs  "is  the  Chief  of  Police,  and  one  who 
draws  considerable  water,  the  avoirdupois  of  his  official 
responsibility  varying  between  the  Capitol  and  Mount 
Vesuvius.  After  the  mail  has  been  confided  to  his  care, 
and  he  lias  found  some  convenient  position  and  assumed 
a  befitting  gravity,  lie  commences  to  call  off  the  names. 
First  comes  a  cream -colored  envelope  upon  which  is  in- 
scribed, in  the  most  delicate  feminine  hand,  the  name  of 
George    Washington    Johnson       ••  Mo,    sah  !"    answers   a 


74  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

young  gentleman  of  Ethiopian  extraction,  when  the  mis- 
sive of  constancy  is  handed  over  to  him,  while  the  boys 
amuse  themselves  with  such  comments  as,  "  It's  from  his 
gal."  "  No,  it's  a  wash-bill."  "  Smell  it,  Georgie,  and 
see  if  she  put  goose-goose  on  it."  Next  comes  the  name 
of  "  Rudolph  Bumblestein,"  and  before  Rudolph  has  an 
opportunity  to  answer,  half  a  dozen  voices  are  singing 
out,  "That's  the  Dutch  mail."  "Cheese  it,  Jimmy." 
"  Put  it  on  the  bottom."  "  Give  us  something  from  New^ 
York."  "  Open  a  down-east  bag."  William  Smith,  cries 
"  Jimmy,"  in  stentorian  voice,  and  even  this  venerable 
tar,  as  he  answers  "here,"  and  reaches  forward,  is  not  al- 
lowed to  escape,  but  is  greeted  with,  "  It's  from  his  board- 
ing master."  "They  know  his  time  is  out."  "Look  out, 
Bill,  she  wants  half  pay,"  etc.  This  continues  until  the 
last  letter  has  been  claimed ;  then  those  who  have  been 
fortunate  enough  to  draw  a  prize  in  the  epistolary  lottery 
retire  to  some  quiet  place  that  they  may  fully  enjoy  the 
contents,  while  the  unfortunate  soothe  their  wounded 
expectations  with  a  few  "  cuss  words,"  among  which  fa 
mixed  up  the  mail  regulations  of  the  United  States  in 
general. 

After  a  pleasant  stay  of  eleven  days  we  bid  Honolulu 
farewell,  and  by  the  aid  of  steam  and  sail,  wended  our 
way  homeward. 

The  great  topic  of  interest  during  this  passage  was,  who 
would  be  elected  President.  Both  parties  were  confident, 
and  their  party  allegiance  never  abated  until  the  pilot 
informed  us  that  Jas.  A.  Garfield  was  the  fortunate  candi- 
date. 

On  the  8th  of  November,  after  a  passage  of  fourteen 
days,  the  chain  rattling  through  our  hawse  pipe  told  that 
the  mission  of  the  "  Ticonderoga  "  had  ended. 


OF    THE    TICONDEBOGA.  75 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


END    HO ! 

The  cruise  of  the  "  Ticonderago  "  has  at  last  happily 
terminated,  after  having  traveled  over  two-thirds  around 
the  globe,  and  over  a  distance  of  twice  its  circumference. 

Besides  visiting  numberless  ports  that  rank  as  civilized 
and  navigating  the  great  oceans,  our  prow  has  clove  the 
mighty  waters  of  the  Gaboon  and  Congo. 

We  have  visited  the  savage  African  at  his  home, 
taught  him  our  power,  gave  him  to  understand  that  if  at 
any  time  he  dares  to  molest  any  vessel  trading  under  our 
banner,  swift  retribution  will  surely  follow  •  that  in  ten 
or  fifteen  years  another  great  war-ship  will  come  and 
present  him  more  tobacco  and  flannel,  and  compel  him 
to  promise  not  to  do  so  again. 

We  have  visited  and  for  the  first  time  given  to  the 
Persians  ocular  proof  of  our  national  existence. 

Among  the  Turks  we  have  left  a  faint  impression  that 
there  exists  in  a  far-off  country  a  people  who  are  called 
Americans,  though  that  they  should  look  like  and  speak 
like  Englishmen,  and  not  be  Englishmen,  is  something 
beyond  their  comprehension. 

[f  the  mere  fact  of  making  our  nationality  known  was 
the  only  good  attending  our  cruise,  it  would  be,  even 
then,  far  from  being  in  vain.  But  we  have  learned  that 
these  out-of-the-way  places  should  be  often  visited. 

A  very  good   example  of  this  was  given    us  while  at 


76  THE    PILGRIMAGE 

Madagascar,  where,  after  much  talking,  one  of  the  dusky 
monarchs  of  the  island  was  made  to  understand  that  such 
a  place  as  America  did  exist,  but  to  impress  him  with  her 
place  among  the  nations  of  the  earth  was  simply  an  im- 
possibility, for  after  delivering  a  eulogy  upon  our  great- 
ness and  resources  that  might  have  passed  for  a  number 
one  Fourth  of  July  spread-eagle  speech,  the  king  merely 
replied,  "  Yes,  big  nation ;  no  got  much  money ;  only 
one  ship  have  got !"  He  could  only  judge  us  from  what 
he  had  seen  of  us — a  nation  of  one  ship. 

England  keeps  a  fleet  of  gunboats  continually  scouring 
the  coast,  ready  to  pounce  upon  him  on  the  first  intimation 
of  bad  faith.  Her  power  he  both  understands  and  fears, 
for  he  well  knows  that  the  same  "  broadside  arguments'' 
that  have  been  used  upon  him  before  will  be  used  again 
on  the  first  overt  act  on  his  part.  England  parades  her 
power  daily  before  his  eyes,  and  is  by  him  respected, 
while  America  and  her  centennial  visits,  if  not  held  in 
contempt,  they  are  soon  both  forgotten. 

In  writing,  as  I  have  had  neither  the  opportunity  or 
desire  of  peeping  behind  the  official  curtain,  I  have  only 
been  able  to  record  events  as  they  have  appeared  to  me. 
If  I  have  erred,  it  is  but  human. 

As  I  have  before  stated,  this  little  book  was  only  in- 
tended for  my  fellow-pilgrims,  but  for  fear  that  it  should 
fall  into  the  hands  of  others,  and  perhaps  one  who  is 
already  contemplating  a  voyage  to  sea,  my  humble  advice 
is — young  man,  save  your  money  and  buy  a  railroad.  In 
the  commencement  of  life  you  may  find  it  galling  to  be 
encumbered  with  stock,  but  they  will  present  a  greater 
consolation  in  your  declining  years  than  can  ever  be 
derived  from  the  high  sounding  title  of  "  common  sailor." 

A   young  man,  and  a  particular  friend  of  mine,  who 


O^     THE     TICONDEROGA.  77 

essayed  forth  on  this  cruise,  filled  with  yellow-covered 
nautical  lore,  has  for  the  last  two  years  been  purchasing 
every  style  of  savage  war-club.  He  says  now  that  the 
cruise  is  finished  he  intends  to  sacrifice  the  remainder  of 
his  life  hunting  up  the  man  who  wrote  the  "  Life  on  the 
ocean  wave." 

Our  mission  is  now  ended.  The  remainder  of  the 
work  we  hand  over  to  legislators,  merchants,  and  ship- 
builders. It  rests  with  them  whether  the  seed  sown  by 
he  pioneer  ship  will  bring  forth  good  fruit  or  not.  The 
road  to  greatness  is  now  open.  It  rests  with  them 
whether  in  the  future  America  shall  cany  on  the  ocean 
what  she  buys  or  sells,  or  whether  she  shall  pay  others  to 
do  it  for  her.  Let  the  two  latter  only  by  patriotic  mo- 
tives be  guided  in  their  labor  for  America's  greatness,  let 
the  former  loosen  the  purse-strings  of  the  nation,  then  let 
us  all  prey. 

THE    END. 


s 

Sfl 

•O  N  CO  (M  C5  lO  O  H  r(<  00  N  CI  CO  (M  X  'O 

1 

3 

•WHHfflCqCO^OHCOCOfOCOCD^H 

c3      M 

•  lO                OS  i— i  rH  1—  <?q                i—t                (M 

Dist 
Per 

CM   rH 

ft 

•OCOCOCOH^>05lO(M.COHiH(MCOC5^ 

« 

O 

•  t— 1            i— 1   i— 1                    i-H  r— 1            (M   <M   (?q   i— 1   (M   i— 1 

5     H 

w 

35§ 

a  ^ 

• 

H 

>> 

•  oo  h  ia  o  h  (M 

•  <M  i-l 

•  <M  Xft  CO  00  00 

rt 

S3 

ft 

CO 

7— 1 

03 

E 

3 

00(MNb«CC(MO500(NNHiQCDHQ0« 

m  i 

O 

<M  i-i                        C<? 

E-t     C5 

w 

^2 

o3 
h 

ft 

(X)     • 

•   rH 

■  r-4 

•  <M 

OOOOOOOOOOOlOOiOOiQOlOJOiOiOSO 

. 

1>-  i^  t^  t-  Jt^  t^  t-  i—  ^t^t^t-t^fc^t-l^t^ 

ft 

GOOOOOOOOOGOOOOOOOOOOOOOGOOOOOOOOO 

U 

o"  J>^  *cT  t-^  c?  ocT  o*  t-^  oT  r-T  io  oo~  r-T  t>T  co"  r-T  cT 

<! 
ft 

(M   C^                    CO            I— IHH(M                    i—lr-HCq 

£    £    O    O*    C5    rj    fj  i  ,JD  i    5i    b    b    b    b    fe*    % 

OOOOOOOOojOiOl0100i0505C50^0iC5 

l^j>.t^i^t>.i>«t-l>-t>»I>»fc^t-t^Wfc-l>. 

ft 

oooocooooooogooooogooogooooooooo 

H 

•v       »>                 •*      at       «t      «k       *t       *t       at      a*      «k      «t      •« 

> 

CD^I^lO  ^  lO*i>*  lOOOOJHbiOOHOlCOH 

cq  d         <M               i— i  rH  i— (  «M               H  H  (M 

P3 

>•  >  d  d  h  d  cj  _Q  jq  jd  £j  b  b  b  b  fe 

•  h- 1      ■ 

:  ©M 

ft 
P 

r* 

!  d 

03 

ca 

<s 

« 

H 

►H 

Z3   « 

Si 

Id 

Si 

1 

O 
ft 

^ast£§$nfir 

111  fill  IlllaJalal 

1 

O       00 

3    O    O  .£ 

Ph  Ph.  Phgg 

£ 

7* 

a 

98 

03 

93 

s 

o 

V  SO  CSS  OS  r-1  OS  OC  O  O  C  C  00  iC  -**  X  ^r  00  :C  h  «  N  r((  rji  C5 
r40ST}trJ(>O^H«O  <Ot»  t»  O  CQ  CM  CM  t<-  h  O  lO  O  (M  O  M  (M 
W'r-*  i-ICSCOiH  hh(NQ0  'M  lO  -^  CO  W  CM  COHH 

T— I  rH    CM    «— •  r-t    »— I 


— 'HX^fMNX^NCMfOOMMNCT.^CCCOOCOCMOO 

NCXlH  CNr- I    r-H    i-H    r-H    r-H    CM    r— It— I    CM    t— I   H    r- i    CM  r-H    r- 1   r— I  t— t 


CM  kQ   X  t-  t-  CM   CM  r-H  CO  CO  nh  ^ 
CM  CM  r-H 


CO  CM   t-  l^  —< 
CM  CM 


c^^oxcocoosocococs^cmcm*coscoco 

<— <  CM 


00<N  CM 


Cs  co  io 


CM   CO   CO   r-H   O   r-H 


CM   r-H   r-H 


c^Qoaoooc^05C^ocic;ac35o:Qa50iOOiocjio> 
i>-  t—  t-  i—  t-  i—  j>-  t-  t>-  i—  t-  i-  i—  t^  t—  i>-  *-.  b»  t^  t^  t—  t—  t-  t— 

^occooc(X)co<X)ccaocooooocc)ccccccooooooooaDooaooo 


OS10«OOS^OC01>-CMCMCS 
t-H   CM   CM   CM   r-H   CM   CM   CM  r-H   r-H 


QCMCOcocCOOCMlOSiH'^'CO 
r-H  CM  <M  CM  CM  CM  CM 


u   £   s-3   u   >>>>>>  ►>-, 


j>j-|0    -+i    -(J    -to 


H     £     £     £     ^IP^^rt     ri  J?r   7     n     o   J   J     r>     P-     r>     P"     6     d     6 


ososososc^oscrsosososooasosc^osoososososososos 
cocx^coao<X)^(X)oooocxiccca<x^<X)cc(X)coooooao>oocoooaD 

t— i  j-H  io  co  j>  c^c^^i^c^r4^^corc^^ofcrccrcxr^^crcM*"xcr 

i-H  CM  CM  CM    t— I  CM  CM  CM    CM    r-i  r— I  CM  t— i  CM  CM  CM 

^      ^'      ^'      P      X    >>  b   ^   ^    S      ^      fcCi^    "S    "g      ,■;      ,4      >      S>      >      r>      i>      O      O 


r 


c3 
■  8    d 


0 

1*11 

*"l      CD      H      <H 


£    S    1=5 
CO     £     o 


c3 


g  9 


o3    3 
PQcTQ 


si 

CO    o 
IS  ^ 

W  s 


,-  bo. 
b£^ 


02 

•  p-i   _o     ^ 


d 


ad  .; 


p 

to' 

^  S  2  I 
a}  H  S  ►*, 


I_j    <T        uj       ni       Sf       Vi»> 


^  1  <p 


p  p3 

ce   co   n   0   ^  c-i  ■ 
■  3   3   ^  J^   d   ffj 


g  i1 


1    to 

COCOGiaC-^COCMC©-* 

t> 

3 

I- 

GO 

-t 

oq 

f  - 

»c 

-H   O    ' 

o      9 

N  N  lO  OJ  H  !M  N  «  H  iQ  «D  O  N  h  «  i?1X  50  ^. 

a     i-h 

COOlC^NNOOHNCC^aCOeOOH 

%      u 

1 1     T— 1     I—t                                                           I— t                                                                                                   CO     ^1 

Q     Ch 

Q 

E 

3 

MHCCOthOOOirffH^OOlCOncOCTN       • 

W 

o 

H(M(M                 CM  CM  r-H  CM                 CM  r- +  CM  CM          CM  r-H       • 

S     H 

a 

3S§ 

S     Ph 

m 

« 

>> 

GO 

lO       •  IC  O  CO  CM  O  Oi  !M  CJ  ^  CO  U1  !M  «  o      • 

E* 

C3 

r— 1         -             r— 1             r— 1    r— »  1— ♦             r-H             CO                                 r— <         • 

CO 

E 

3 

r-HCXDCOCOr^r-Ht^-rHCOCOCMCO^^+l^ia^l^t-     ' 

W    w* 

O 

r-H             CM             r-H                                        CM            r-H                                        .— 1 

H    5 

w 

3  2  ; 

OHHCOtO«O^NH^cOCOifTJ<(MTji^ 

r-H    r-H    p-l                                                                                                               CO    r-H 

CSOSOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO      • 

pi 

t^Noocccoxa)QO(X)ooa)ciO'X)ooaoX'xa)     • 

p 

GooococooooociooocxDooooGooooooocjooooo     • 

fi 

jo"  «^  cm"  co"  cT  co"  co"  cm"  co*  co"  co  h  ao  aT  aT  -rfT  r-T  icT    ' 

3 

i— I  .— I  i— 1   CM           CM           CM                         CO          i— 1  CM          r-H  CM       ' 

Ph 

M 
ft 

6   6   r5   d  _q  j£   b   b   h   b>  £>  b»  §  ^  ~P"£  "£  «2     ^ 

CsCSOiOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 

t^t^t^co(X)ccaooo<X)OOcoccoocccocccooooo 

> 

CX}OOCX)CXDCX)CX)GOGOGOaOGOGOGOGOGOOCCOQOOO 

co"  »c  t>T  co"  t}T  cm"  go"  cT  *S  -rfT  ^T  r-T  co"  i—i  co"cm"i--^^  go' 

P5 

r-H    CM    CM             r-H    CM            CM    r-H            r-4            r-H    CM                     r-l 

Ph* 

III  M^llltli  ififil 

•  .  •  $ 

xn 

'.        '.     02      3 

r3      . 

-M     0) 

«5 

*    •  PI  FJ 

r3          * 

ft 

■     •  o  -2  * 

s 

In 

H 

HH 

d 

H 

.3  ^^  m 

© 

c5  _; 

M 
GO 

i— I 

CO 

•s   a   c 

3 

J 

d 

go 

> 

M 

•—i      *>  to  *5         ,y*S    <si 

&4 

§ 

s 

^    ~ 

% 

-p  _£. -+2   s   o-hcFJ   a. 

o3 

Ch  ?3    Ph 

ba   n 

QQ 
H 

O 

Ph 

y 

■J 

T 

- 

s 

-  5   g   g   be  s: 
o "o   © .S    C 
QQ  On  pM  50  pc 

^  c 

an 

s 

'-1 

6 

s 

rZ 

OF     THE    TICONDEROGA.  81 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  TICONDEROGA- 

Ship-rigged,  screw  steamer. 

Where  built :  at  Navy  Yard,  New  York. 

Launched :   1863. 

Tonnage  :   1019  tons. 

Displacement :  2220  tons. 

Length  over  all :  270  feet. 

Length  between  perpendiculars  :  234  feet. 

Breadth  of  beam  :  39  feet. 

Length  of  masts  from  spar  deck :  fore,  126  feet  6  inches; 
main,  135  feet;  mizzen,  105  feet. 

Draught  of  vessel:  when  loaded,  forward,  15  feet  11 
inches;  aft,  17  feet  3  inches — when  light,  forward,  12 
feet  7  inches  ;  aft,  14  feet  7  inches. 

Stowage  capacity  :  coal,  350  tons  ;  provisions,  four  and 
a  half  months  for  200  men ;  water,  4600  gallons. 

Depth  of  hold  :  1 7  feet  2  inches. 

Kind  of  engines  :  Isherwood  low-pressure  back-acting 

Horse  power :  600. 

Kind  of  boilers  :  two  water-tube  Martin  boilers  ;  1 4 
furnaces. 

Battery :  one  60-pound  rifle,  Marsilly  carriage ;  six 
9-inch  smooth  bore,  iron  carriages  ;  two  8-inch  rifle,  iron- 
pivot  gun  carriage ;  two  20-pound  B.  L.  rifle,  iron  car- 
riages. 

Greatest  speed  made  during  cruise  :  'under  sail,  9.6 
miles  per  hour;  under  steam  and  sail,  12.2  miles  per 
hour ;  under  steam,  9.2  miles  per  hour. 

Greatest  distance  run  during  24  hours  :  235.8  miles. 


82  THE    PILGRIMAGE 


OFFICERS   OF    THE   TICONDEROGA. 

Commodore  and  Commander  in  Chief: 

R.  W.  Shufeldt. 

Commander :  Lieutenant : 

B.  J.  Cromwell,  Comd'g.  E.  W.  Sturdy,  Ex.  Off. 

Chief  Engineer  :  Surgeon  :  Paymaster  : 

Fred.  G.  McKean.       H.  M.  Wells.     W.  J.  Thomson, 

First  Lieut,  of  Marines  :         Lieut,  and  Navigator  : 
D.  Pratt  Mannix.  Hobart  L.  Tremain. 

Lieutenants  : 
F.  J.  Drake.  Kossuth  Niles.      C.  E.  Freeland. 

Assistant  Surgeon : 
R.  A.  Urquhart. 

Assistant  Engineers : 
Samuel  Gragg.  Jos.  P.  Mickley. 

Ensigns  : 
W.  S.  Hughes.  F.  F.  Fletcher. 

H.  H.  Hosley.  D.  Daniels. 

Cadet   Engineers : 
G.  W.  McElroy.  Jos.  R.  "Wilmer. 

Pay  Clerk: 
Jno.  R.  Rosse. 


OF     THE     TICONDEROGA. 


83 


CREW  OF  THE  TICONDEROGA. 

Chief  Petty  Officers. 

John  H.  Oates         M.  J.  Ley  Geo.  L.  Allen 

Paul  Schladensky    Frank  Jeffers  Thos.  Pentony 


Jas.  R.  White 
Albert  Demo 


John  Carlisle 
Chas.  Dougherty 
John  E.  Smith 
Jas.  Howard 
St.  Leger  Croue 
David  Lane 
Edward  King 
Albert  Southard 
Juan  Luis 
Richard  Hogan 
Geo.  H.  Post 
John  Walker 
Jos.  Harrison 
Alex.  Walker 
Daniel  McNeil 


John  Murphy 
Samuel  Peterson 
Frank  Gillespie 


Granville  Kimball  Jas.  H.  Rehill 
William  Jenkins     E.  R.  Holloway 


Petty  Officers. 

Henry  Hughes 
John  O.  Bergman 
John  Murphy 
M.  K.  Paxson 
Wm.  McHugh 
H.  M.  Seaman 
F.  P.  Marshall 
Thos.  Brown 
Peter  Steinborn 
James  Ryan 
John  McCoan 
W.  H.  Parks 
A.  L.  Broman 
Thos.  Callanan 
Chas.  Minkins 
Samuel  Banks. 


Robert  Adams 
C.  L.  Coppins 
E.  F.  Mack 
John  Wilson 
John  Helmke 
John  Hora 
Andrew  Johnson 
R.  T.  Llewellyn 
Timothy  Sullivan 
Geo.  Blatchford 
Nils  Berlin 
Wm.  Hill 
J.  A.  Sanstrom 
M.  K.  Donoghue 
Kinsey  Baldwin 


Seamen. 

Jno.  L.  Waterson    Michael  McQuade 
James  Quillen         Henry  Stuart 
GudmundKnudsenWm.  Watson 


John  H.  Thompson  Alexander  Jean       Edward  Tierney 


84 


THE    PILGRIMAGE 


D.  R.  Hancock 
Andrew  Anderson 
Pat'k  Sullivan 
D.  G.   Price 
Geo.  Mohr 
Louis  Marks 
W.  P.  O'Brien 
T.  H.  Galligan 
Daniel  Shea 


Robert  Carberry 
John  Walsh 
John  Young 
John  Alexander 
C.  L.  Murtha 
S.  H.  Long 
Isaac  Nelson 
W.  B.  Malcom 


Michael  Sullivan 
Edw.  Welsh 
John  Dennison 
James  Wiseman 
Jeremiah  Sweeney 
Wm.  Strang 


John  George 
Edward  Ward 
Chas.  Williams 
E.  C.  Lichtenstein 
Samuel  Fries 
Chas.  Coleman 
W.  J.  Wilson 
Benjamin  Green 

Ordinary  Seamen. 


C.  W.  Brooks 

E.  W.  Watson 
Thos.  Kidell 
O.  Yan  Riper 
Frank  Myers 
A.  M.  Foster 
H.  R,  Yewell 

F.  L.  Klein 
Miles  E.  Butler 


John  Feigel  Geo.  D.  Young 

Timothy  Mahoney  Wm.  Donovan 
James  Re  illy 
J.  R.  B.  Glisson 
H.  A.  Knowlton 
Geo.  L.  Walker 
E.  H.  Macomber 
Heinrich  Baown 


Carl  Ericson 
E.  C.  Boone 
O.  W.  Clark 
H.  M.  Chambers 
Otto  Sellerburg 

Landsmen. 

John  Miller 
Jas.  Sproule 
Frank  Smith 
Chas.  A.  Garrett 
John  N.  Adams 
Chas.  F.  Reilly 


John  Trafford 
John  Bryan 
H.  J.  Phelps 
E.  S.  Cathcart 
Richard  Ayers 
John  Havden 


ENGINEERS'    DEPARTMENT. 

First  Class   Firemen. 


Chas.  Harris 
James  Foley 


John  H.  Splane 
John  Harrington 
Anthony  Murphy. 


Michael  Burke 
David    Lawrence 


OF     THE     TICONDEROGA. 


h:) 


Second  Class  Firemen, 

Thos.  Cahill  Pat'k  McCarthy  R.  B.  Thurber 

Edward  Bartley       Louis  Fitzgerald  Thomas    Doherty 

Michael  Kelly  R.  J.  Cunnigham  Geo.   M.    Haerter 

John  Harbin  E.  J.  Klein. 
Coalheavers. 

Wm.  Wallace  Wm.  Lake 

H.  W.  Sloan  Jos.  M.  Beebe. 

Landsmen  E.  F. 
Maurice   Vincent     John  McLaughlin   Daniel    Doherty 
L.  C.  Smith  Edw.  Walsh  Jno.  T.    Donovan 

L.  Shroeder 


J.  J.  Deely 
Geo.  L.  Baker 


H.  K  Powell  John  Meany. 


H.  Taylor 
I .  R .  Devineer 


Servants. 
Jno.  T.  Williams 
Geo.  Blamire 


Chas.  M.  Johnson 
and  7  Chinamen. 


MAR1X1 


1st  Sergt, 
Robert  Bates 

Corporals. 
Michael  Portley 
Thos.  Maher 


GUARD. 

Id  Sergt. 
Jno.  Healey 

Music. 
E.  E.  Sanford 


J  as.  Boyd 
Jno.  A.  Daniels 
D.  W.  Jenney 
Jos.  Meadowcraft 


Geo.  Ross 
E.  T.  Fleck 


R.  rJ\  Johnson. 
Privates. 
Dan'l  Carbery         Geo.  A.  Clark 
Chaw.  A.  Dixon        M.  J.  Doyle 
Thos.  R.  Keys         John  Keenan 
F.  W.  Meagher.       John      nil. 

DEATH'S  M  ITS  PER  ROLL. 

Chas.  R.  Berwick    Francis  Huxley 
•John  Kenzel. 


C  U  "7  V  ff  0  '  y 

^736 

*f5' 

/®$£ 

